| Author |
Message |
    
Brent P
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 09:09 am: | 
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I'm looking for recommendations for a new regulator for my M-60. I just had the alternator rebuilt earlier this year and want to continue upgrading the electrical system (I think the regulator is the original).
Any suggestions? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 542
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 12:40 pm: |
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Is your regulator one of the solid state units? |
Richard Shapiro
Advanced Member
Username: mainesails
Post Number: 46
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Friday, November 30, 2007 - 09:01 pm: |
|
Any external regulator, like the Balmar units, will work if your alternator is designed to work with an external regulator.
The unit must be adjusted to your batteries. They type of engine is not important.
These units will charge your batteries much faster and more efficiently, and are generally considered a very useful upgrade. They will also let you change to AGM or Gel Cell batteries if you wish, as the voltages are adjustable.
The instructions will talk you through the programming and the wiring, which is not complicated.
However, if the regulator is internal, then your alternator may need to be connected differently or rewired to work with an external alternator. A mechanic, especially an alternator specialist, will be able to answer the question for you simply by looking at the alternator. |
Matthew Lennarz
Member
Username: mlennarz
Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 12:33 pm: |
|
Hello,
I have discovered that my alternator on my P60 is not charging my batteries. I have tested voltage output directly from the alternator, when the engine is not running and when the engine is running and get exactly the same 12.1 volts. Can I assume that it is due to a faulty alternator, or could it be some other problem, such as the voltage regulator? And, if it may be another problem, can you recommend diagnotic steps to identify the problem? Thanks. |
kevin stone
Member
Username: kdstone
Post Number: 25
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 10:21 pm: |
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Mathew, do you have the engine manual which is available from this site? It has a section on testing the alternator. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 881
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2010 - 07:48 am: |
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In some installations the field current for the alternator is supplied via the ignition on/off switch on a separete wire. Have you checked this possibility?? |
Matthew Lennarz
Member
Username: mlennarz
Post Number: 9
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 10:01 am: |
|
Kevin, Thanks. I found the testing procedures.
Richard, yes, it appears that the positive (red) wire from the alternator goes to the ignition switch. Even if this were the case, shouldn't I get a voltage higher than 12v directly from the the alternator positive post when engine is running? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 882
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 10:37 am: |
|
When the key switch is turned on I would expect the field voltage supplied to be the same as the battery voltage as it comes from the same source.
When you say 12 volts one has to take into account the accuacy of the voltmeter. Not knowing the regulator is it external or probably internal to the alternator. If the battery isn't charging if it is internal to the alternator then I suspect the alternator regulator is defective. I have exhausted my knowlege of your problem. I just know too often the key switch lead to the alternator for reasons often traceable to shall we say less that qualified dock attendants strap the field wire to the positive battery lead and wonder why the battery goes flat when the engine is shut down. I suggest checking to see if the field wire voltage goes away when the key is turned off. |
