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Message |
    
Matthew Wallace
New member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2007 - 11:35 pm: | 
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Hello All.... I Finally got the boat float'n
I Have a few questions.The motor is a Palmer M 345
The motor seems to run hot. I left it idle at the dock for about 25 min or so and the temp gauge was reading about 180 to 190.....is this normal?
The guy I bought the boat from has removed the thermostat....should I replace it?.....I tested the thermostat in a pot of water and it seemed to open and close smoothly. The motor fires up and runs great. Could the temp gauge be wrong?....I felt the water jackets and they were pretty hot though.
Thanks in advance,
Matt Wallace
P.S. I will post some pics of the almost finished boat. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 697
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 08:11 am: |
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Matt,
If it is freshwater cooled or in freshwater where it will NOT see salt water 180/190 is fine. If it is raw water cooled in salt water it can't go over 140.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Matthew Wallace
New member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 3
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 06:44 pm: |
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Thanks Ernie....it is in lake Erie....but I have a closed cooling system..I did read in the engine manual last night that the thermostat is fully open at 192 degrees....so it appears to be normal.....thanks again......I am going to post some pics tonight |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 507
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2007 - 08:45 pm: |
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I had a fresh water cooled 455 Olds in a 33 foot boat and started out with the 190 thermostat that came with the engine. It was great that fall but the following summer on Chesapeake Bay the cabin became stifling hot for hours after that big chunk of iron shut down. I swapped the 190 for a 165 thermostat and there was a noticabl difference unless the air was perfectly still at night which it often is in August on the bay. I could see no differecne in fuel consumption with either thermostat. Just a thought you may consider. Ernie is absolutly right don't ever let salt wate cooling get over 140F or you will soon have an engine water jacket that is solid salt. |
Matthew Wallace
Member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 4
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2007 - 05:13 pm: |
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Thanks Richard..I will keep that one in mind.
My temp issues appear solved
I think I have some carb problems
its a delco rochester and the motor wants to stall at low rpm.and smells gassy
any thoughts? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 511
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2007 - 08:16 am: |
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My guess is the ports for the idle jets are full of gunk. |
Matthew Wallace
Member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 5
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 01:18 am: |
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Mr. Day....and all...thank you for your help.
Is there any way to get the gunk out of the idle ports short of removing the carb?
Could I disconnect the fuel line and use compressed air?.....I think you have hit the nail on the head Mr. Day. The motor runs great over 1000 rpm.....It starts hard I have to really rev the throttle while cranking. once underway it is smooth. Stalls everytime i try nuetral or any thing close to the 550 rpm idle(per palmer engine manual) I have put a new fuel water seperator on in place of the antique screen in a can that came with the boat. MY carb is a Delco Rochester 4g..I beleive my motor is a 1973 m 345....would I be better off just rplacing the current carb with a rebuilt one?......I know lots of questions.....but I do appreciate your knowledge and patience....thanks Matt Wallace |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 513
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 08:02 am: |
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Myself I would get a carb rebuild kit and have at it. Take care and don't hesitate to take photos as you go so when you want to put it back together you can follow the steps you took getting it apart. I have had no luck trying to use compressed air to clean out the idle jets. I also have little confidence in local mechanics cleaning carburtors. I get the impression some just dump the carb in a cleaning solution and blow it off with compressed air. It is not difficult to rebuild but it does take care to make sure you don't distort springs and omit key items. I guess if you don's want to rebuild it yourself you can try to buy a factory rebuilt unit. Best I can suggest. |
Matthew Wallace
Member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 01:26 pm: |
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Thanks Richard. DO you know where I could locate the rebuild kit?........... |
Lawrence T Wolfe
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland
Post Number: 260
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2007 - 07:33 pm: |
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You can do the soaking yourself if you want to napa sells a kit with a can and fluid. You can buy a thease kits at most auto parts stores. A guy i know used to work at carb rebuilding place he said they soaked all the carbs that came in. They had a tank the size of a bathtub and refilled it from gallon cans. One day fellow smokeing a cigarette walked over and looked in the tank. He does not work there anymore. |
Skip
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 02:22 pm: |
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If you want someone else to do the rebuild, there is a company in our area that has a very good reputation. I have not actually used their services myself and do not have any affiliation with them but when I thought I needed to have my carb rebuilt, I asked around and the "salty" folks at my marina highly recommended ReCarbCo. Seems like they are a pretty big-time operation and welcome ship-in/out work. I talked with them about mine and they seemed knowledgable and friendly. It just turned out that my problem was not carburetor related so I have not had to do a rebuild yet. Here is a link to their website: http://www.recarbco.com/ |
Matthew Wallace
Member
Username: matt_wallace
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, August 04, 2007 - 11:26 pm: |
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Hello..thanks to all for the helpful tips and info. Here is where I'm at. I have the carb off and have a mechanic friend ready to start on the rebuild. I have a rebuild kit that came with the boat in my box of spare parts the box is marked Delco Carb Kit
and the numbers on the box are Group 3.725,
17076086 and 176086 inside on the spec sheet I was able to locate a listing under the 4G section for Palmer Marine.....My problem is it had 2 seperate listings for the M345 one said
M345 7015091 and the other was M345 7019084
Are those numbers the Carb numbers?
The only Id on the carb itself is a stamped number under the flame arrestor.....which is 9540
and the words 4 Jet GM.......The fella I spoke with at NAPA when I was inquiring about a rebuild kit said that there would be an ID number on the carb where the throttle cable screwed in and he said it would more than likely start with a 70 something.(which leads me to believe the 701 numbers listed above might be the carb #'s)
Well like i said the only numbers are the ones I listed. The engine serial # is 43473 5S...I think the motor might be a 1973? In my manuals it has the info for adjustments and such but no part #'s.
it also refers to the carb as a Delco Rochester 4G....not a GM 4 Jet like it says on the carb. Any ideas or insight is greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance......Matt Wallace |
