| Author |
Message |
    
Dano
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 10:34 am: | 
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Reciently bought a old sail boat and started working it over.
Its a 1968 29' Columbia
with a Palmer p60 gas engine
After replacing all spark related items, rebuilding the carb, and the water pump.
It would run at 160 F. for about an hour then slowely loose power and die.
It would then not restart and run, it took about 1 hour and then it would again run for a while.
Convincd it was overheating, we rebuilt the water pump a second time and
opened all hoses to and from the pump up one size.
This required drilling and tapping the block water inlet plate. to accomdinate the larger pipe size.
The engine now runs at 130 F. and water in notacibly in greater supply
at the discharge.
Convinced after a few pratice laps at the Marina, and some dock testing.
We once again put out to sea, and once again.
The same thing occured.
One hour, then loss of power and stall.
After cooling 1 hour, we can again get back to motoring.
The craft is underpowered with this old 22hp engine.
We are out of ideas.
Any help would be appericated.
PS
Are there any high performance parts avail for this engine, to bost HP.
thanks again
Please send e-mail directly
[email protected] |
Richardday (Richardday)
Senior Member
Username: Richardday
Post Number: 252
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 11:31 am: |
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Check the air bleed line. Wasted time making oversize piping in my opinion. Sounds like water in jacket is being forced down the side of the cylinders and very much overheating them. The air bleed line should be cleaned once every season. |
dglovinanswersnowcom
New member
Username: dglovinanswersnowcom
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 04:09 am: |
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I, too, own a boat (1973 Columbia 30 with a Palmer P-60. I have a problem and could use some help.
After about 20-30 minutes under load, the engine seems to slow and when given additional throttle, slows even more. Backing off the throttle keeps the engine running. Shutting her down for a while starts the routine all over. Any ideas? |
eddie
Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 10:06 am: |
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dg,
Could be a clogged fuel vent causing a vacuum to form in the fuel tank. To check, loosen the the fuel cap when it happens to break the vacuum.
Aside from that I recommend replacing the ignition key switch. In old boats, or old cars for that matter, the contacts in the ignition switch can get worn and/or corroded causing intermittant failures. You don't see it in cars as much because they usually get junked before that happens. You can get one from West Marine for about $20.
Eddie |
J.B. Castagnos
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, July 11, 2004 - 10:21 am: |
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Get a vacuum gauge and tee it into the suction side of the fuel pump. Run the engine and watch the gauge, if you have a blocked screen or vent the vacuum will rise. If this doesn't show anything try it with a pressure gauge on the outlet side. Make good connections and check for leaks before running. |
Jon Libby
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2004 - 09:06 am: |
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I had the same problem with my palmer years ago. No power as I gave it more throttle. More throttle and the more carb sound, but no more RPM. Plugged or restricted exhaust. With out the exhaust free to leave the engine yes it will overheat or run warm. I un-did the exhaust right at the back of the manifold to prove it to myself. DON'T run it for long ,DAAA. But it should show that it will REV up. My plug was in the riser piece. I cut the top of it and could see the problem. fixed it and welded the top back on. |
Mike Neben
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2004 - 02:32 pm: |
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I am looking for a replacement for the water temperature sending housing. Mine cracked and leaked onto the #4 spark plug, then parted altogether. This part sits on top of the cylinder head and takes water from the head to the exhaust manifold (or vice-versa) via a rubber hose. Any ideas for part source? Approx. 1972 P-60
Mike Neben
Wachacallit
Columbia 28
Dana Point, CA |
eddie
Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 10
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, July 17, 2004 - 05:09 pm: |
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Mike,
You'd have to find a P-60 being parted out as that part is not common to the IH tractor. I'd think you could repair it with some good high temperature epoxy or have it brazed or welded. If the later run a tap through afterward as the heat will probably warp the threads for the sender. I work in tool and die and have done a lot of repairs similiar to that.
Eddie |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 264
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2004 - 08:29 pm: |
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I think I have the part you need Send me an e-mail and address. |
Barnett
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, April 29, 2007 - 03:14 pm: |
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We have a 34' Columbia 1971 MKV....It still has the original Palmer 60HP gas motor in it. The valves .... according to our mechanic... are frozen. We would like to purchase a re-built motor to replace it. Can you recommend a motor you think would best work in place of it? We would prefer a reputable marine machinest in Southern or Central California. Also, is there anyone who would like to buy this motor to utilize for other motor components? Please advise.
Mr. & Mrs. Michael Barnett |
Richard Shapiro
Member
Username: mainesails
Post Number: 28
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 10:24 am: |
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I have a few thoughts, though I don't have really good answers for you.
I assume you mean the Palmer P60, not a 60HP Palmer which would be highly unusual in a 34' boat!
The Palmer has an engine bed spacing of 22", which is, as far as I know, unique to that engine. If you want anything else in there, you'll have to replace or rework the beds.
Also, the Palmer is very low. Most diesels are substantially taller. I don't know the Columbia, but unless you have a few inches of vertical clearance to spare above your engine, you are going to have to be careful what you pick.
You can buy a rebuilt A4 from Moyer, but they're on the east cost.
If you part out your Palmer. The item of value is the exhaust manifold.
Best of luck.
Rich |
Visitor
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 03, 2007 - 11:20 am: |
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Before you write-off the P60, I acquired my boat with P60 a couple of years ago. The boat had been left unattended for many years. I initially had a lot of trouble getting the engine running reliably and discovered that a stuck valve was the problem. I thought I was going to have to repower. After talking with some knowledgable folks about engines, I decided to give this a shot and the engine has been running fine ever since.
I removed the spark plugs. I sprayed carburetor cleaner and soaked the valve and tried to spray (using one of those little tubes like comes on WD40) down inside the valve hole. I let is soak for about 10 minutes. Then, using a little metal tool (bought at my local auto-parts store... similar to a dentists tool with a hook and point on each end), I "carefully" pressed the tip through the spark plug hole and set it on top of the stuck valve. Then I took a hammer and banged really hard on the exposed end of the tool. It broke loose the stuck valve.
The engine has been running fine ever since. |
jack hill
New member
Username: svwindygo
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 10:28 am: |
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I have a palmer p60 in my columbia sailboat 1975. I have a problem . when you start it up it will only run with the choke button pulled out. it runs great at this pint but when you push in on the choke it dies. it always ran great and before you never even had to choke it. it will not idel anymore does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be please let me no thanks, jack sv WINDYGO. |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 221
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, October 12, 2008 - 04:28 pm: |
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Off hand, Id say that your jets are clogged and you are running off the idle circuit of your carbuerator, You probably need to clean/rebuild the carbuerator. Some people had good luck replacing the original carb with a Zeinth series 68 (aluminium body) which also fits an Atomic 4 engine. |
jack hill
New member
Username: svwindygo
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 02:03 pm: |
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Thank you i will try that. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 670
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 15, 2008 - 05:25 pm: |
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My experience with the Zenith 61 series carb is people tend to ignore the obvious. When you clean the carburetor make sure you run compressed air into the area over the float valve. If you don't have a special tool take a soda straw and hold it so the air blast drives the crud out of the inside of the inlet. It is amazing the amount of lint like material which can build up chokingoff the fuel flow to the top of the float valve. YOu can get a carburetor rebuild kit from any NAPA store for the carburetor and it is a very simple carburetor to service. The Napa Carb Kit no. 2-1565 is the one you want and it includes a diagram. Costs about $30. Don't forget to clean the back fire trap and clean the oil dipstick air filter in the handle in gasoline. make sure the PCV plastic hose from the Backfire trap is connected to the valve cover EL near the forward end. This is important to insure the crankcase fumes are vented out the exhaust pipe. Good Luck
Just remember a dedicated amature is far better than an indifferent professional. |
jack hill
New member
Username: svwindygo
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, October 19, 2008 - 11:00 am: |
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thanks for the responce |
R.wrock
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, October 26, 2008 - 01:38 pm: |
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Does anyone know the number for a PenTronix Electronic Ignition Conversions for a P-60?Thanks,Bob |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 223
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 27, 2008 - 06:43 am: |
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Gennesee Electronics has one that will fit the P-60. |
