| Author |
Message |
    
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 11
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 04:40 pm: | 
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OK my learned friends, I need some help. I relaunched my old clinker yesterday after having refurbished the Blaxland 3.5 engine. The engine runs fine when the boat is out of the water, but once in the water I start having problems. I ran the engine with the boat in the water for a few minutes without the prop. shaft connected to let it warm up and check the water pump etc. I then connected the prop. but I had difficulty in getting it started again. I eventually got it to run with the throttle fully closed and then gradually opened up the throttle to run at a reasonable speed. We motored for about 10 minutes and then for no apparent reason it just stopped. I then had to follow the same procedure as described above to get going again. This patten reapeated itself until I worked out that over a certain RPM the motor is not happy. I believe this to be associated with alignment problems which I know I have to address. I then ran out of petrol and had great difficulty in restarting after refilling (petrol flow was ok). Anyone got any ideas? Cheers, Bruce. |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 189
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 05:53 pm: |
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Bruce....I think your thoughts re the alignment of your prop shaft are correct. ou say it is OK when the prop is disconnected but the problem arises when you engage the prop....elementary my dear Watson!
Sorry ,just had to say that .If the problem persists keep posting ,someone will have the answer. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 219
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 08:46 pm: |
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Have you tried running it with the shaft connected out of the water, if severely misaligned it shoud be tight to turn, if not it should rev OK. Is the exhaust water cooled? Where is the water being introduced, it could be getting back into the cylinder with the exhaust pulses, if you think this is a problem try diverting the water for a short period. Is it getting enough fuel through the carb, can you richen it enough to make it run bad, if not the carb could be dirty. Is the prop correct, too much prop can cause problems. |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 10:06 pm: |
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Thank you Peter and J.B. The engine runs fine with the boat out of the water and the prop. shaft connected. The prop. turns quite easily by hand. When running out of the water the engine takes quite a bit of stopping, even when the throttle is fully closed. The problem is obviously related to torque or thrust. A little history about the boat might help you guys. I bought it from a boat hire place at Kincumber NSW about 13 years ago. They were taking the Blaxland's out and replacing them with outboards (yes, I can hear the groans). I managed to save one of them and restored both the boat and engine (both of which are about 50 years old) to the best of my ability. The engine ran quite happily for a good number of years before it started giving me problems, which was stalling and difficulty in starting. The rear most stern bearing was very worn and had been since I first got the boat and I believed this was causing the prop. shaft to "whip" excessively thus causing too much load on the motor. This was evidenced by the fact the the engine would not run properly even out of water at high revs. I removed the engine and gave it another overhaul, replacing the crankcase housing, machined both it and the existing crankshaft and hand fit the crankshaft to the bearings. I also replaced the stern bearing. Of course now that the shaft is supported by two bearings it does not align properly with the engine. The two flanges probably misalign by about 1.5mm to 2mm at the top and about the same on one side when presented to one another without any support. To answer JB's questions, yes it is water cooled and water comes from a sea pipe at the bottom of the hull. It seems to getting plenty of fuel, I didn't really try to make it run rich, I was mainly interested in making it run lean. It was backfiring quite a bit and vapour was escaping from the carby air intake when idle. Does that help? Cheers, Bruce. |
John Roseland
Member
Username: rosey
Post Number: 16
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 10:30 pm: |
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Bruce
Try and richen up the fuel mix first.The mixture screw is on the base of a type D carby.
You may have too much oil in the sump and therefore it needs draining. I will email you the manual which explains all things techo better than I can.
Secondly if you can turn the shaft by hand when the boat is in the water with the engine not engaged ( that is with the levet drawn the the stern of the boat) then alignment is not your prob.
Thirdly make sure there are no air bubbles in the fuel line. Bleed the line right through until it runs freely and there are no more signs of air.
Good luck. |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, January 21, 2007 - 10:59 pm: |
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Thanks John,
I already have a copy of the manual and I can almost recite verbatum.
The spark plug was pretty "wet" when I first started having problemes which made me think that the engine was running too rich.
I filled the sump with the amount of oil that was specified in the manual.
I can certainly turn the prop. shaft easily by hand with the boat in the water. By the way, no clutch fitted at this staged.
I use the "blow air into the fuel tank filler tube by mouth" method to ensure no air locks or bubbles.
Cheers,
Bruce. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 222
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 06:17 am: |
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It could be ignition trouble, this will leave the plug wet with unburned fuel, leaning it wil help a little until the engine stalls. Will make for hard starting also. |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 14
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 04:05 pm: |
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OK JB, the magneto was serviced when I first got the boat but it hasn't been since. I seem to have plenty of spark though but it might not be consistant. It's a bit hard to check that. Does anyone know someone in Sydney who can service and test a Lucas magneto?
Cheers,
Bruce. |
John Roseland
Member
Username: rosey
Post Number: 17
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 07:39 pm: |
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Bruce
Aub Rose in Kirrawee 02 9520 4717 will be able to help you out. He is only avaliable in the mornings after 9am |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 08:08 pm: |
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Thanks John,
I'll give him a ring.
Cheers,
Bruce. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 223
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 09:03 pm: |
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This long distance diagnosis can be hard, did you try a new sparkplug? |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 16
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 09:20 pm: |
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The plug is virtually new, only been used a few hours. Gap set right (0.025") and clean.
BF |
David Myers
Member
Username: dave_myers
Post Number: 10
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 10:20 pm: |
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Gentlemen, Gentlemen, Gentlemen.
The main problem is a simple thing called alignment. Bruce stated in an earlier post that it was up to 2 mm out of line. This places an extreme load on the rear of the motor and 2 strokes do not like side thrust. As the Blaxland has a very flimsy crankshaft it causes it to whip internaly and load up. The backfiring indicates a lean mixture compounded by the alignment problem causing air to be sucked in through the the rear bearing, losing crankcase compression, and so on it goes.
Fix the alignment first and foremost by shimming the motor to the shaft (can't change the shaft position).
I doubt that the Magneto is a major problem. Clean and adjust the the points. DO NOT use Wet & Dry or Emery cloth! These leave a deposit on the points face. Use a proper point file or your wifes nail file (not the emery board) and then wash the faces with Metho, petrol etc. DO NOT spray with WD40 or other DW fluids in the points area. It causes dust etc to build up and when damp everything stops.
Bruce, you did not say whether the motor is a X or SXT 3.5 hp. The X is Rear Flywheel (Stern end) and SXT is Front Flywheel (Stem end). The X models do not have any thrust bearings fitted and rely on the Maggie drive for thrust adjustment. The SXT has a rear Thrust bearing fitted.
Aub Rose will also confirm the alignment problem and what it causes.
As an aside, My 3 hp Hall would not run at full revs in the boat and was hard to start as well but run fine on the bench. The propblem! Misalignment. Fixed that and all was well. I have a 3.5 SXT and it will start with a pull of the flywheel, no strap required. I know of many others that will do the same, as well as the 5/7 twins.
Sorry for the long winded post but the thread seemed to be going on well intented gueswork. My solutions may be all wrong too, but experience tells me otherwise. Hope it all works out Bruce, If not we will all have another go to sort the problem.
As JB said... It is a little hard by long distance than to being there.
Cheers,
Dave. |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 17
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 10:48 pm: |
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Thanks Dave for benefit of your experience. I think we are all getting somewhere here and I thank everyone for their input. The engine is an SXT and does have a thrust bearing which I replaced in the first renovation. I used it again as it was not displaying any signs of wear. One of the things I don't understand is the instruction in the manual that the alignment be done by presenting the two flange faces without any other support of the shaft. Doesn't this mean that there will be already bend in the shaft due to the cantilever effect of the amount of shaft that extends from the stern bearings? If that is the case, then I am going to have to lower the engine and skew it off the line of centre to make it align properly. Cheers, BF. |
David Myers
Member
Username: dave_myers
Post Number: 11
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 11:29 pm: |
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Hi Bruce,
No.. the instructions are a little ambiguous. They asume that the shaft is supported by a Stern and Log gland bearings. Just align your motor to the natural position of the shaft. I sometimes use a small block of wood to take the weight of the shaft behind the coupling and align from there. Just as long as the shaft will turn freely.
It is a bit of an exercise to align the motor but I use large washers and cut a slot in one side so that you just slip them in under the crankcase flanges. Thinner ones if needed can be made from copper or galvanised sheet. When you are close, use a feeler gauge to check the final align (hold down studs tight). Slide it around the flange to check for tight spots. Anything within 5 - 10 thou is ok but closer the better. A good test is to finally bolt the flanges together and loosen the grub screws on the coupling and see how the shaft turns in the coupling hole.
You realy need a clutch to make life easier. Been there done that with direct drive.
My new 18 footer will be powered by a Stuart Turner twin with gearbox and all. I cant wait to finish it.
Lets know how you go.
Cheers,
Dave |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 18
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Monday, January 22, 2007 - 11:46 pm: |
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There goes my long weekend. Thanks for the advice Dave and everyone else. I'll let you all know how I go.
Cheers,
Bruce.
PS Can't afford a clutch at this time. |
Eric Schulz
Member
Username: eric_schulz
Post Number: 13
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 12:09 am: |
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Hello Dave,
I agree with most of what you say about that problem Blaxland, but I can't agree with your contact point dressing methods. You said to use a good magneto file. I have never seen a good file for the job. In my experience they were far too coarse, like using 60 grit paper. This leaves a very rough, scratched surface. To prevent premature burning, you need a smooooth finish. Unless they just needed a polish, I would remove the points. Most magnetos would have the contacts in two parts, unlike a distributor, so you can start cleaning up badly burned ones on a fine emery wheel, like silicone carbide. Grind one flat, the other a little domed. This allows for any misalignment. Finish them off with that wet and dry about 300 grit, lying on a dead flat, hard surface. Plate glass is good. As you rub, the grit breaks up and becomes much finer. Use that fine part to get a smooth finish. Then a good clean, as Dave said. I must have done hundreds of these without problems. If the emery wheel scares you, just start off with coarser paper.
This is what works for me. I don't want to start a feud!!!
Eric |
David Myers
Member
Username: dave_myers
Post Number: 12
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 12:57 am: |
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Hello Eric.
Agree with all you say about dressing etc but most people do not have a fine wheel or a good flat glass to dress points with, so I pointed out the easiest way available.
I still have points / magneto files I bought 35 years or so ago and they are very fine. Modern Nail files are also very good as they are diamond stone and ideal for dressing in the field. I also use a diamond plate that is used for honing chisels and plane blades and find that good also.
No problems on starting a 'Fued' mate. I feel we are all here to pass on any knowledge and help we can to other's questions who may be in trouble.
On another note, Will get back to you regarding that motor I posted last week.
Cheers,
Dave |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 19
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2007 - 07:21 pm: |
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OK Gentlemen, I spent almost the whole of the Australia Day long weekend in the hot sun aligning the prop. shaft to the engine. I had to remove the engine bearing timbers and rebore the bolt holes to give me enough adjustment. At least it gave me the opportunity to make sure the hold down bolts and lag screws were tight as the timbers have gone very soft over the years. Dave's suggestion to line up the shaft with the bore of the flange proved very useful as I iscovered that the flange bore and the outside diameter do not share the same centre. I lined up the shaft with the bore hole and tightened the flange screws but now the shaft flange is off centre to the coupling flange by about 1mm. I put the old girl back into the water yesterday and she started first pull. We motored for about half an hour without any backfiring, rough unning or stalling. I had the fuel mixture needle set to one full turn. I wanted to see how the engine would restart after stopping so we took the boat back to ramp (I didn't want to row too far if it wouldn't restart), stopped the engine and refueled. It took 2 or 3 pulls to get it to start again and it was pretty sluggish for about the first 20 metres or so (no clutch remember) but after that there was no problem. Why is this so? There was a bit of vibration, and I assume that this is due to the ecentricity of the shaft flange, but all in all I am pretty happy. Thanks to everyone for their help. Cheers, Bruce.  |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 24
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 12:01 am: |
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Dear brains trust, please refer to the previous thread and excuse my long winded post but I am very frustrated.
I started engine with the boat on its trailer after long lay off (12 months) without any trouble. The next day I launched the boat for a fishing trip but I couldn’t get the engine to start, even with the prop. disconnected. I suspected stale fuel. I angrily returned home and flushed the tank, lines and carby and filled with new fuel (1:32). The engine then started first full on trailer with the prop. disconnected.
Two weeks later. I prepared boat for fishing the next day. The engine started first pull on the trailer with the prop. disconnected. It was raining the next day so I did not venture out.
Four days later, I tried starting the engine on the trailer with the prop. disconnected. It would not start so opened the mixture needle until it did (1/2 turn). I connected the prop., it started and ran OK
The next day, I launched and tried starting with the prop. connected. The engine would almost start but not run. I fiddled with mixture needle without success. I disconnected the prop., but it still would not start. I suspected the engine was flooded after so many attempts at starting so tried starting with throttle closed. The engine almost started. I opened throttle but still would not start. I fiddled with mixture needle until the engine started and ran. The engine was backfiring so I reduced mixture (more lean). It ran OK and I left running it for a few minutes to warm up.
I reconnected the prop. but again it would not start. Increasing the fuel/air mixture allowed it to start, rough at first so I choked the air at carby throat until the engine was running smoothly. It was back firing so I reduced the fuel/air mixture. The engine was now running smoothly. I motored for about 5 minutes (with the tide) but then the engine stopped without warning. It restarted after a few pulls and needle adjustments and ran OK for short time until in position for fishing.
After drift fishing for about 3 hours I was able to restart the engine after two or three pulls. I motored back to start of drift position against slow running tide for about 5 minutes. I had to adjust the mixture needle to obtain smooth running occasionally.
About 1 hour later, I started the engine after two or three pulls and motored against the tide back to the ramp (about 10 minutes). Again, I had to adjust the mixture needle for smooth running. I noticed that during motoring, the engine would occasionally “knock”, not backfire, like a dull clunk, but it would keep running.
Please note that the engine/prop. alignment has not changed from last year when it was running well.
My observation after all this is that the engine seems to need a higher fuel to air mix to start and lower fuel to air mix when running. My question to you my learned colleagues is why is the fuel to air mixture so finicky and what can I do to overcome it?
Bruce. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 352
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 07:08 am: |
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Does your exhaust exit underwater? Backpressure can change mixture and make for hard starting. On outboard motors where the exhaust exits under there's a bypass above the water. Bee's nest clogging the hole cause problems. Next I would remove the carb and clean it well, check for water also. A few drops of water can cause problems, it's a lot heavier than gas and it won't lift up through the carb, causing starting and running problems. Usually when a 2 cycle is backfiring and sneezing you have to richen it up, it seems as though you had to do the opposite. |
Todd Vidgen
New member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 04:59 pm: |
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I agree with JB that backfiring is due to being
over lean/low fuel mix in sumps,the fact that you have to keep adjusting your mixture indicates a
fault in your carb(what sort of float do you have?)
I have a 5/7 and never have to touch the mixture
My mate Boyd and I build a few putter motors and
set the timing,mixture etc when we test them.
We then tell the owners "you may touch and adjust
the yellow parts,-however you will notice there
are no yellow parts"
But seriously if you are being driven mad,and dont
mind a drive to the central coast, give us a hoy
and bring your boat,as I think there is more than
one problem here. Best of luck |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 25
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 05:17 pm: |
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JB The boat is a standard old clinker with the exhaust exiting well above the water line via a bent copper exhaust pipe. When I flushed the system I dismantled and thoroughly cleaned the carby. I think I may have got a little confused. You ared right, I did have to richen the mixture to avoid the back firing. Todd, the carby has a cork float which is relatively new. The boat came from Kincumber, it probably won't mind a trip home :-) I might just take you up on your offer. Cheers, Bruce. |
Todd Vidgen
New member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 06:25 pm: |
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The cork floats tend to be adversly affected by the
new fuels and then get "water logged" and start to
sink>inturn having an effect on carburetor performance.I would suggest taking off the carb
and sending it up to Boyd and fitting one of our
synthetic floats,check/adjust float level etc
then test it on one of our motors.
Do you have a spare maggy? |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 26
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2008 - 06:45 pm: |
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OK Todd, I can do that, I'll get the address offline. No, I don't have a spare maggy, why? |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 353
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 08:47 am: |
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Bruce, about the spare maggy, Miro has said that 90 percent of carb trouble is electrical. Many times when you can't get the carb adjusted correctly it's an igniton problem. A rich mixture will fire easier tna a lean one, so an engine will be sputtering along and you lean it to smooth it out and it dies. Try a new plug with a close gap, .018 to .020". If it runs good, open the gap to .030", if it gets erratic it's a sign of a weak mag. |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 27
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 05:16 pm: |
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Hmmmm, that's very interesting JB, the maggy hasn't been properly serviced for a number of years but there alway seems to be plenty of spark. The spark plug I used last outing was brand new out of the box and I set the gap to 0.025" as per the manual. |
Todd Vidgen
New member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 08:51 pm: |
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Plugs can also do your head in ,on a number of occassions.when water testing new simplexes/blaxlands,I have just about done my back in trying to gat them to start.Then replaced the 2
brand new plugs with 2 known quality test plugs,and
hey presto off she goes.On one occasion I went through 6 brand new plugs(at $30 each,not happy)
Lucky for me my supplier replaced them.
The Champion 25 series plug made in Mexico seems
to have a track record for being problematic and
prone to glazing and tracking to ground.
We are using a champion N21 or NGK B4ES with a
brass adapter and having great results(plugs only
$4 each)If you can find 25's made in the USA,these
are more reliable than the Mexican jumping bean
plugs.
Another little story that may be useful.
I built a simplex 6/7 for a chap in a 16 ft carvel
boat,and while the motor stared and ran smoothly
it struggled to run a 12x13 prop,so after may
prop changes(we have a few)ending up with a prop
so small as to be useless.And of corse checking
all things like,timing,carby etc,etc,etc- I tried
One of my test maggies>Chucked on a 13x13 and went
putting with 4 mates,and 2 cartons for 4 hours
never missing a beat(I think,lot of bear drunk)
The owners maggy did not produce a big enough spark to fully ignite the fuel under load as the
resistance accross the air gap increased.
This is usually caused by the condensor,and these
actually have a finite life 20>30yrs for the metal
type ,Up to 100yrs for the Wico bakerlite type |
Bruce Findlay
Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 28
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2008 - 09:06 pm: |
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Todd, this is all starting to add up. I'm starting to think that my problems, which started last year, came after I had bought two new plugs from Repco as they are the only people who supply them it seems. I've kept the boxes so I'll be able to see where they were made. I had to replace the one I had in last year because the terminal screwed right out of the ceramic. I'm beginning to believe you about the maggy too because the engine has never run with any great power or reliability, even after being rebuilt twice. |
Bruce Findlay
Advanced Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 31
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, March 29, 2008 - 05:32 am: |
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Well, you are right Todd, both my new plugs were "assembled in Mexico using components made in the USA". |
Bruce Findlay
Advanced Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 32
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2008 - 07:45 pm: |
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Todd, my SXT Magneto and carby are on there way to the address you gave me. Cheers, Bruce. |
Bruce Findlay
Advanced Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 33
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 01, 2008 - 10:57 pm: |
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I received an answer from Repco, they can only supply Champion 25's made in Mexico. Anyone got any other ideas? Also, I asked them if the could supply the Penrite Water Pump Grease but Pentrite told them that they will only sell them a minimium quantity of 12. So the price for a quantity of 12 X 50 gram units will be $83.88 Inc + freight cost. Looks like a drive to Smithfield for me. |
Todd Vidgen
Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 15
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 07:56 am: |
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Bruce,We have already talked by phone,re carby,but
I think that it would be good to share the findings
of the disembowelment of your carb.
Not all alpha/scheble(?) carbs are the same internaly
The air horn diameter can be different,the air valve
can be different,and THE AIR VALVE SPRING CAN HAVE
MANY VARIATIONS
Your poor litle two stroke single Blaxland was trying to operate a 6/7 Simplex four stroke carb,
which once you got to start would have run
But to start would have been a B'stard as the much heavier spring would have a detrimental effect on
the fuel intake.
Dont forget that the air valve is only used for initial starting,and once running is kept held back by vacuum>so a heavy spring in a 2 stroke
wont help.
The restrictor in the throat was not much help either.
Re The magneto,any magneto (lucas SR type single)
with a metalic cap should not be used as the cap will be guaranteed to track with the slightest
degree of moisture let alone salt walter.
A good bakerlite or plastic cap is available for
marine applications(as will be fitted)
Keep your magnetos in a nice warm dry place at all
times,NEVER LEAVE THEM IN THE BOAT.
As an observation(not pointing fingers, as a lot of good well meaning folk have save a lot of
engines etc).But if you have to grind,cut,fill,
redesign something to make a mechanical thing
function after the manufacturer has designed,tested,built and sold it,you have got
something wrong(not you Bruce).I have had 1st and
2nd yr apprentices who apparently know more than GM,Ford,Toyota,etc put together(all those wasted billions.
I see this frequently,where lack of money,well
intentioned people ,good well meaning folk ,try
to build/get one running.
One of the hardest jobs for me is "decoding" what
is original and what is bodged,and unless you are told, the only way to find out is to pull it apart
measure it ,test it etc.
Sorry Bruce to go on ,on your thread,but to keep
these old girls going,I hate seeing Bits wasted on the wrong engines,then the whole lot being trashed
because it did not work properly(maybe I should
have started a thread,"saving parts")
Anyway look forward to water skiing behind your
boat |
Bruce Findlay
Advanced Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 35
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 11:17 pm: |
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Hey Todd, thanks for sharing the deficiencies of my carby with the rest of the world. How embarassing  I should sue the bloke who sold it to me for my strained wrist and the stress fractures in my back. Good information though. Cheers. |
John Gad
New member
Username: amagus
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 12:59 am: |
|
The magneto on my Pup will not turn off the engine when I press the stop button on the magneto, can anyone tell me why?
Any help greatly appreciated.
John G |
Todd Vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 154
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 01:05 am: |
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John,the stop button is an earth.
Either their is corrosion under the button
where it grounds on the case,or the internal wire to it has fallen off or broken
Cheers Todd |
michael mcclure
New member
Username: moose_mc
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 01:51 am: |
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does anyone know what sort of magneto a super pup originally came with, i have all sorts of issues. |
John Gad
New member
Username: amagus
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2010
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 02:29 pm: |
|
Thanks for the prompt reply Todd. Will let you know hows it goes. I am about to use sikaflex to caulk some leaks around the botton bow boards will let everyone know how that goes.
Cheers
JG |
Todd Vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 155
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 04:00 pm: |
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Mike I know of two motors they both have Lucas SR's
and Technicos.The important thing is the cam in them
The super pup has its own special cam so you can
flickstart it in either direction.If you use a maggy
with a standard cam it will be a bugger to start,and
probably will only run in one direction(probably reverse)
Todd |
quinton wilkinson
New member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 04:04 pm: |
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Ring John at Blaxland Chapman always the best for assistance
0265583182
Quinton |
quinton wilkinson
New member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 04:16 pm: |
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I have a 15 foot marine ply boat built from plans out of the popular mechanics mag about circa 1958/60 in portland, it used to fish off Indented Head Bellarine peninsular Geelong area , beautifully built, last in water 1982, has also special trailer built for it . It has a blaxland twin,dog clutch and brass prop, swings easily no leaks . Is there anyone close to Ballarat who has experience in these motors who will go through it and be there at the start up again . Everything seems in order have new parts for carby replaced and mag has exc spark .It seems that all the mechanical parts and tank were as the Blaxland ops manual which is origonal .
Quinton |
