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| Waterjacket on 4hp Acadia |
| Author |
Message |
    
Sleded
| | Posted on Friday, September 13, 2002 - 08:44 am: | 
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My 4 hp acadia has some sort of restriction in the water jacket which
limits flow of cooling water through the cylinder head. The motor still
runs fine but I have to open the bypass valve to prevent my intake hose
from breaking due to the back pressure.Does anyone out there have any
idea of what I can do to clear the restriction without causing any
damage to my motor? The motor is a dome head so therefore I can't
take the cylinder head off to clear the obstruction?
Thanks Ed Welsh |
mechman
| | Posted on Monday, September 16, 2002 - 11:20 pm: |
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Goodday --Is it possible you have a check valve in the water line that is in backwards? ? Good luck! Larry |
Sleded
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 09:30 pm: |
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Larry,
No, I've checked all the hoses, lines, pump and anything else that has to do with water. Its a restriction inside the water jacket;ie rust or dirt. I just need some way to cut the crud off the water jacket. E-mail me if you have any more suggestions.
Thanks,
Ed |
Dick Gibbens
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2002 - 11:15 pm: |
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Hi Ed, I would try flowing water through the water jacket with a garden hose while working a rod, suggest about 3/16" dia, into the outlet in such a way too crush rust particals that build up in the outlet area. Perhaps shape the end like a "J" and turn it with a drill motor. |
jack
| | Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2002 - 12:29 pm: |
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Ed,
I have found that compressed air injected in small bursts with a flow of water creates a great turbulence within the water jacket and will go a long way toward breaking up residue. Good luck, and you will probably get wet!
Jack |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2002 - 04:46 pm: |
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Don't use acid and expect to have a useable cylinder when you get done. Solder a small flashlight bulb to fine insulated wire that permit you slip it into the jacket to light up the build up inside the jacket and then with a dental mirror or shards from a mirror you may be able to see just where your problems lies. That much rust build up is an indication it is probably a salt water engine and if it dries out it will eventually crack. If the rust deposit is rock hard then almost nothing will cut it including carbide tools. You then wind up cutting major sections of the outer water jacket away on a metal cutting bandsaw and taking a cold chisel and a lot of strokes carefully chipping away the rust down to parent metal. Don't take such big bites that you break into the cylinder wall. At that point the game is about over and you will need to move on to sleeving a two port or three port engine which is a nightmare to say the least. After you get all done with water passages the outer jacket can be epoxyed back in place. Don't weld or braze. Then pray or curse the stresses you relieved in the parent metal don't suddenly cause cracks as a result of years of stress in one direction now going in a different direction. In short you have one awful job ahead of you that can be done but it takes a lot of patience and skinned knuckles to say the least. Have fun. |
Tim Mulvey
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 06:33 am: |
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Electrolysis is the go - there's a lot of information on the web. It's used lot by stationery engine and car restorers.
I saw some impressive results on a blaxland cylinder at Aub Rose's place in Sydney. He's been working on blaxlands etc for over 70 years was very impressed with the results.
I've put together a list of hyperlinks on electrolysis and other rust removal techniques inc. mollasses - hope the links work.
Bill's electrolysis page
http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/electrol.htm
Sweet Sorghum "Rustbuster" http://www.syrupmakers.com/rust/
Glenn's Auto & Hobby page - derusting panels
http://www.users.bigpond.com.glenn_percy/derust.htm
Morris Registry of Victoria - dissolving rust
http://www.moreg.org.au/dissolving_rust.htm
Hillman/Ron Beckett - Getting Rid of Rust
http://www.hillman.org.au/rust.htm
Rust & How to Remove It http://virtualindian.org/projrust.htm
Metal Web News - A Primer on Rust
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/rust/rust.html
Antique Auto Ranch - Rust Removal
http://antiqueautoranch.com/montana500/adrian/rust.html
Old Marine Engine - Removing Corrosion discussion topic
http://216.147.55.68/discus/messages/5/434.html?1016708129
Gene Waugh's Tips on Rust Removal
http://www.oldengine.org/members/rotigel/gene.htm
Old Marine Engine - Clogged Water Jacket discussion topic
http://216.147.55.68/discus/messages/1/209.html?1013176821
Good luck,
Tim |
Ernie
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 08:04 am: |
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Take a look at the pics of a 3 hp Acadia that I cut open. The subject is "clogged water jacket" and the initial post was Jan 22nd of this year. I still have not put the jacket back on. It took me about 2 days to clean out all the blockage.
Ernie |
Dave W
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, September 17, 2004 - 11:45 pm: |
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An industrial method of clearing heat exchangers and water jackets is to reverse flush with a hot solution of Nalclean 66. (Nalco chemical co.)It's a mildly acidic treatment, so care has to be exercised and checks made often.
Dave W |
Rob
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, September 18, 2004 - 04:56 pm: |
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Try filling the jacket with vinegar and let sit for a week and then flush out. The compressed air and water idea sounds very good. Try scratching around with wire at the same time. The acetic acid in the vinegar (it's rarely more than a 7% solution) will, by a process I cannot explain, soften and loosen the scale etc. If the water jacket has ever had oil in it you'll be wasting your time though. Only way then is mechanical methods. Blank off the water ports after putting in some nuts, ball bearings etc. and tumble or shake for a good long time., or else cut ports in the jacket with a very thin "zip disk" and chip the scale out, preferably with an air or electric chisel, then braze back together. Know someone here who has used the vinegar with great success. Could always try some of that Crosby's molasses too(!) though it didn't work for me. |
thomas
Senior Member
Username: thomas
Post Number: 221
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, September 18, 2004 - 05:43 pm: |
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My RW-1 Palmer was loaded with scale, rust and just plain crud from spending most it's run time
in salt water but motoring the last mile or so in fresh river (yeah!!)water which, I was told, helped clean it out after each run. In deference to Dick Day I will say that the acid treatment is pretty much at your own risk but the RW-1 cylinder was filled up and emptied twice with fresh muratiatic acid. It foamed up a bit with a brown-black froth but was very clean when done.
I have an article from Cars & Parts (I think) that says to coat the cylinder (maybe neutralize
is a better term) with formaldhyde. I got a quart from the local chemical co and ran it through after a good fresh water wash using hot soapy water at the car wash. When all dry, I coated the inside with Por-15. I have not had any problems at all. That treatment is pretty much my standard now for all the engines I restore. I had one engine that was really into the salt decay process. There were several big pieces of the water-cooled manifold broken out and missing but at first glance it did not appear that way because the hard iron oxide-salt
"stuff" was filling in all the missing areas.
That stuff did respond to sand blasting and could be removed without hurting the good cast iron but (as Ernie points out) you can't get to the deposits without cutting open the jacket and rewelding later.
I will look at all those rust URL's Thanks!! |
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