| Author |
Message |
    
Steve OBrien
| | Posted on Monday, September 09, 2002 - 06:09 pm: | 
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Yesterday I reported that the cylinder head to my Simplex 3HP had blown. I dismantled it last night to find that the corrosion had indeed gone through between the water jacket and the cylinder with a hole about 4mm x 2mm, but at the top of the cylinder, clear of the machined bore. There is substanial clearance between the corroded spot and the top of the piston. Does anyone know of a repair technique that might work?
I'm told that only a few dozen of my 3HP model were ever made and I have buckley's chance (not much) of finding a replacement. This engine's rarity makes me even keener to see it going again rather than go for complete replacement.
There's a lesson in this...this comes immediately after 1 1/2 years out of the water after 70 odd years of performance. Keep the air out of your engine!! A wise old expert told me (too late for me) to keep freshwater running through the cooling (say at about one drip per minute) if you are going to store an engine for any length of time.
Steve |
Tom Stranko
| | Posted on Monday, September 09, 2002 - 07:10 pm: |
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Just a note on storage. I have always run undiluted antifreeze all through any engine
I've run and drained out the remainder. The jackets don't rust-just have a nice oily film
Tom |
eureka
| | Posted on Monday, September 09, 2002 - 08:34 pm: |
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Steve, Mate if you have good acess and obviusly you do it would not be a big job to braze weld the hole. When your cleaning it up though dont grind it.. this smears graphite over the surface either have it grit blasted with very course grit or use a coarse burr in a dremel or file it. Also it is important to allow the head to cool down as slowly as possible to avoid chill hardening so packing it in hot sand is a good idea. As to the choice of welding alloy I would use Comcoat Blue.. it seems to " wet out" nicely on cast iron and has excellent strength and fills small holes such as yours easily.
Finding a replacement head could be a challenge and repairing the damaged one shouldnt be that difficult.
I recon that a product called "Tanblend" that I ( & many others) use to prevent rust in boilers is the absolute bees knees for preventing rust in engines as well.. it passivates the metal leaving a rustproof layer.. you can get it from anyone who sells or maintains boilers.. check your Yellow Pages |
Audie Taquino
| | Posted on Monday, September 09, 2002 - 11:49 pm: |
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Steve, Look for a product called Esco weld. It's a two part epoxy, A&B. I have used it to repair the top of a cylinder on a large diesel engine and it held perfectly saving the engine and hundreds in major rebuild. The surface must be very clean and dry. It helps surface is rough also to grip the epoxy. If you can't find Esco Weld try to get some J-B Weld for steel. It is just as good. I like this repair method because it doesn't involve heating an already endangered piece. If you can't find either product send me a e-mail and I'll send you some for my actual cost. Good Luck |
kevin
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 10, 2002 - 07:29 am: |
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Hi steve,
Looks like you may have it sorted.
Can't remember the last time I was glad to miss out on picking up some spares
Regards Kevin |
peter ogborne
| | Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2002 - 07:29 am: |
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Steve .......some time ago Ernie [ one of our regulars ] suggested using straight diesel oil in the water space to prevent corrosion whilst in storage . As Ernie said '' It doesnt harm anything '' I have tried it and it is fine .
With your simplex repair .....sounds like you are in the combustion space ? They say that JB WEld will work here ......but you cant get it in OZ as far as i know ...........try the Epigen 2008 ,you have nothing to lose .
But give Peerless Plastics a ring and ask them about some of their other products . Some are ceramic based and are recomended for very hi temp . The draw back is that they must be oven cured
Please keep us informed how it works out
By the way ask for Beven at Peerless |
steve obrien
| | Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2002 - 06:45 pm: |
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I have sent the head off to a specialist welder who is confident he can fix it by cutting an access hole through the outer jacket. Who knows how long before some other thin area will fail, but at least it appears that she will run again, hopefully for another 70 years!
I have the epigen catalogue and there are some very impressive products. But we'll see how the welding goes. |
steve OBrien
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 09:53 pm: |
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Well two months later my cylinder head has just gone back to the welder...again. A big piece of the cooling jacket cracked away before welding began. That gave me access to clear out most of the incredibly hard rust deposits which filled 99% of the jacket. Here's a few pictures...I cant believe from the look of it I am still working towards restoration, but you guys have inspired me. Note the hole in the top of the cylinder.
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Steve OBrien
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 10:09 pm: |
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here are the pictures (I hope)
/image{simplex1}
/image{simplex2}
/image{simplex3} |
Steve OBrien
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 27, 2002 - 10:17 pm: |
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next attempt - third time lucky!
here are the pictures (I hope)
 |
Steve OBrien
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 28, 2003 - 09:33 pm: |
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Well the cylinder is welded and is off being honed by the experts. Should be up anbd running soon.
Steve
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peter ogborne
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2003 - 07:55 am: |
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Steve ,I have repaired a Blaxland Rae with a big piece cut out of the water jacket as in you picture ,nothing through to the combustion space though. I used Epigen |
