|
| Author |
Message |
    
Evan Roberts
Member
Username: robbo
Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 10:44 pm: | 
|
I am looking for help in how to go about redoing the white metal bearings lost whilst heating the head to free up piston.
Also looking for carbie and magneto.
I look forward to any assistance.
Regards, robbo |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 166
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, September 07, 2006 - 08:09 pm: |
|
I'll see if I can help, what are you pouring, mains and rods? What type mains, split or does the case have a bell end? |
Evan Roberts
Member
Username: robbo
Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 09:45 pm: |
|
Hi, Thanks for your offer. It seems strange the I live about 10 miles from where thr engine was made however you are assisting me from the other side of the world!
I have resized a photo that shows my situation however it will not upload.
Would you please have a look in the marine engine
editor as the photo is there.
Thanks, Evan (robbo) |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 717
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 09:55 am: |
|
Evan,
Is this your photo?
 |
Evan Roberts
Member
Username: robbo
Post Number: 9
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 06:45 pm: |
|
Hi Andrew,
Yes, that is it.
Thanks,
Evan |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 168
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 10:21 pm: |
|
Evan, the crank will have to be supported in the center of the bore. Measure the crank and the bore in the case, if the crank is 1 ¼” and the bore is 1 ½” you will need a 1/8” shim to center it, the bore won't be a true circle without the gaskets so check it across the case. You can use gasket material for shimming the crank, the most critical thing is to have it parallel to the case, a c-clamp on each side to hold it tight.. Once it’s centered you can support it with wood, clamp two one foot boards together edge to edge and drill a hole the size of the crank through the middle of the boards at the parting line. This will give you two boards with a saddle cut that fits the crank. Hold them against the crank on each end of the case, cut boards to fit between them and screw it all together and to the case. Unclamp the crank, remove the shims and set the crank back in place, the boards should hold it centered and will also act as a dam to stop the babbit from flowing out of the ends. Space the crank evenly front to rear in the case, counterweights up, and seal between the crank and case with rtv silicone, seal between the boards and case also if necesary. Pieces of key stock or flat bar placed on the case on each side of the crank will make it easier to our the babbit and give a little head pressure to make sure the bearing is poured full. Heat your babbit, probably 500 to 700 degrees, depending on the grade, it should char a pine stick when hot enough, skim the dross from it. Preheat your crank and case to above 200 degrees to remove moisture and aid in pouring, then pour your babbit fast, don’t give it time to freeze before it goes all the way through. Use a big enough laddle to make it with one pour, don't try to be neat, remove the excess after. Wear proper safety gear, face shield, long sleeves, and boots. Remove the crank and file the excess with a rasp, repeat for the other side of the case. Once poured, put the crank in place, you shold have a gap for the gaskets, rock the case over untill one side touches, measure the gap on the other side. Half this distance should be a starting point for gasket thickness. Please feel free to ask any questions, I may not have made it all clear, and remember, you can always remelt and start over if it doesn't come out right the first time. |
Chris Grallelis
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 09:06 am: |
|
Even,
I used a dummy shaft.Go down the list on this
site until get to 01-04-04 where I have some photos.
Cheers
Chris. |
Evan Roberts
Member
Username: robbo
Post Number: 10
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 06:41 pm: |
|
Thanks Gents for the tips.
Becomming clearer and the Chris photos very helpful. I am having trouble comming to grips with how to do the rod bearings.
Regards, Evan |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 175
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 10:21 pm: |
|
Evan, go to this thread, there are pictures of how I did it.
http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/1/94086.html |
|
|
|
|
