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| Need advice about changing oil on P-60 |
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Chip
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 12:35 am: | 
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I am making good progress on my P-60 thanks to all the great advice on this site... Thanks! I am at the point where I need to change my oil. It seems like I am going to have to pump the oil out via the dipstick tube. However, I have tried three different types of pumps (manual, electric, and power drill driven)... none of which seem to be able to suck out the oil. I am basically attaching about a 1/4" hose and sticking it down the dipstick tube until I know it is below the level of oil as indicated when I stick in the dipstick. I have run the engine about 20-30 minutes immediately prior to trying to pump in hopes of thinning the oil down but I am having no success getting the oil out. When I used the powerdrill pump, my catch jar filled wtih a fairly thick oily smoke but no liquid at all. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! |
Richard Shapiro
Member
Username: mainesails
Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 07:39 am: |
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I am making the assumption that, when you check via dip-stick, the oil level is correct. Given that, you could use a piece of brass tube stuck into the end of the flexible hose. You might have to bend it a bit, but you would be much more positive it was ending up where it was supposed to.
I use a hand pump with a flexible hose, and it did take me quite a while to "get the hang" of it. After a few years of practice, it does become easier.
Good Luck! |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 114
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:21 am: |
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People run into snags with pumping out oil trough the dipstick. I think a lot of times the end of the tube sucks onto the flat surface on the oil pan. I noticed the one I liked the best had a angle cut on the end to prevent this. It was a plastic hand pump. It removed all of the oil in a couple of minutes.
I would be intent upon solving this problem because keeping the oil clean is the key to the longevity of any engine. Insist upon API-SM rated motor oil. |
Nick Fort
Member
Username: nfort
Post Number: 6
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2006 - 10:16 pm: |
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I tried getting the oil out of the dip stick tube and gave up with frustation. The drill pumps were a joke. I ended up getting a plastic throw away paint roller tray liner which was flexable and I was able to slip it down under the engine. I have an Islander 30 sailboat. Then I went to Nappa auto parts and bought a suction pump for about $11.00. It look like a grease gun with an felexable plastic tube on it. Think turkey baster but automative scale. With the oil in the paint roller pan drained from drain plug, I sucked up the oil with the suction pump. Give it a try. Nick |
Dean
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 12:46 am: |
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I bought a manual oil suction pump, a plunger (cylinder) type, with caps top and bottom to reduce mess during storage. It was marketed for pumping oil and came with a black hose for the top and stiff clear plastic hose (angle cut) for the bottom. I can't remember if it was from West Marine or AutoZone. I pumped the oil out cold (seized engine), no problem (took a fair bit of force on each stroke, once it was primed). On the downside, almost 1/2 a quart remained behind.
Directly below the alternator/water intake is a side facing oil drain plug. Its square, so you will need a wrench, and some kind of catch pan (modified paint tray may work). Mine was pretty much frozen and rusted in place, YMMV.
If you need to remove the alternator to access it, this is a fair bit of work. I toyed with the idea of replacing the plug with a valve and hose arrangement; but haven't committed to such an installation. Anybody else try this?
Also, note that the OXKB reverse gear has its own private oil bath and you have to change that oil separately. You will need to remove the top cover to determine the proper fill level. There is also a brass drain plug on the bottom of the reverse gear housing. This plug is hollow and probably has a magnet in the base. You can use a Q-tip cotton swap to clear out all the worn metal particles that are meant to collect here. If this hollow is filled with sludge, cleaning it out will restore the function of this small feature since there is otherwise no oil filter to service this area. |
Chip
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 03:57 am: |
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I finally got the job done. Thanks to all for your replies! I wound up using the drill powered pump from Home Depot with a couple of pieces of clear plastic tubing. Somehow I guess the tube I was using was curling up somehow inside the dipstick tube and/or crackcase and preventing me from sucking out the oil. I wound up straightening out an old wire clothes hanger and mounting it inside one piece of clear tubing. I crimped the end about 1/2". Then, I pushed the tube and coat hanger down the dipstick tube until it would not go any further. I figure the crimped portion of the coat hanger prevented the tube from drawing a suction against the bottom of the oil pan and also allowed me to ensure that the tube did not curl up. It took about 3-4 minutes of pumping with the drill pump and I had drawn out about 3 quarts of oil. I could not get anymore to come out so I guess I will just put as much new oil as possible into the engine now. |
Dean
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 05:54 am: |
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Don't you have the Paragon OXKB transmission? The P-60 has an oil seal on the aft of the crankshaft. The oil in the gear box is NOT drained when you drain the oil from the dip stick. Maybe you don't need to change this oil as often, but you should remove the cover with the 6 bolts to be sure. The owner's manual suggests that too much or too little oil on the band clutch mechanism may destroy it(I haven't figured out which). Don't forget to maintain the gearbox as well as the engine proper. |
John Teller
New member
Username: wildjohn
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2005
| | Posted on Friday, August 25, 2006 - 11:41 am: |
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Anyone know where I can get a new thermostat for my M-60 Plamer. The one in place seem to keep the engine too cool. Are there different degree thermostats?
John |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 156
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, August 25, 2006 - 04:29 pm: |
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If you are running in salt water with raw water cooling system you should not exceed 145 degrees. Raw water systems run in fresh water can go to 160 degrees. |
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