| Author |
Message |
    
markc
New member
Username: markc
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 05:20 pm: | 
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Hi,
Trying to bring a '56 Hercules K back to life and am in very early stages. Would like feedback from experts:
Here's what I know thus far:
No battery in boat when I got it.
Coil is 12V. Light bulbs were 12V.
Generator and Alternater #'s were originally 6V, but I am guessing they were rewound.
Starting circuit works, engine turns over fairly well.
No fuel at sediment filter when cranking.
No spark at coil output when cranking.
When I open points, 12V is seen on open side of points. The resistance across the points when open or closed seems to stay the same at approximately 60 ohms. I am suspecting a bad condenser and ordered one but did not install.
Filed points with emory board some but no improvement.
The other thing that concerned me was while cranking the battery the voltage dropped to under 10V. I only have a 525 cranking amp battery so I was wondering if this was too wimpy for the engine. I would have thought I could get a spark though. Tried a different coil but no change.
On the fuel side I have since read part of the original operator manual and they referred to two fuel cutoff valves, one at the engine and one at the tank. I have never looked for the one at the tank so maybe the line is simply cut off there.
Any input/comments would be appreciated.
Mark |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 237
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 08:54 am: |
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The battery voltage dropping to 10 V while cranking is OK - there is a huge current going through the battery and the internal resistance will cause the terminal voltage to drop.
It is the current that you need and if the starter is cranking the engine over smartly, then it is OK.
Sounds as if you have electrical problems (remember that 80% of problems with old engines are electrical)
So, with the distributer cap off, if you can, turn the engine over until your points are closed. The snap open the points with your fingertip a couple of times. You should see a small sparks across the points. If you do, then bring the high voltage wire from the copil over to a convenient part of the block to see if you get a nice fat blue spark when you snap the points with your fingertip.
If you don't then you gotta find out why this ain't happening - remember to turn on the ignition switch.
As for th fuel system and carb - the simple rule is that the engine needs fuel to run.
If you have a drain on the float bowl, open it up or take out the small plug to see if there is fuel in the bowl. IF there isn't fuel there, then work backwards from the carb to make sure that each componement in the chain is OK ( eg fuel pump, fuel filter, any valves are open, blow though any lines to make sure they are clear etc etc)
Be prepared for a leaarning experience ( and sore knees) and when you eventually succeed - please make some notes for yourself.
miro |
dijo
Member
Username: dijo
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 08:49 am: |
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Miro is right on target with the battery.
If you haven't got a functional starter, here is a trick I learned from an old timer: Remove the hook of a plain metal coat hanger with cutters. Connect a volt meter to the battery terminals. Using two pair of pliers (one on each end of the coat hanger) jam the ends of the coat hanger in the + &- battery terminals and hold them there for
30 seconds. There will be a spark, the laquer on the coat hanger will first burn, and then the hanger turns red hot. If voltage falls below 9 volts after 30 seconds, you have a battery that needs charging or replacement. The coat hanger simulates a starter..
If there is any question about the quality of the gasoline, I would replace it. More than year old can be a bad scene.. |
larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland
Post Number: 184
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 12:04 pm: |
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Most of the herk engines had 3 letters as the model number, IXK,DIX,etc. If you could post more info bore and stroke or ci.We might figure out the whole model number. |
markc
New member
Username: markc
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 02:39 pm: |
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Hi,
Thanks for all the responses. Any help/suggestions is greatly appreciated.
The motor is a '56 95 hp Model K. It is a straight six. I have all the specifics on the engine at home, but can't remember. Will check tonight.
For the condenser, when it goes bad does it typically short or measure a low resistance (like 60 ohms or so). If so that could explain lack of spark since no current change or circuit resistance change/increase when points open.
For the fuel line, is it typical to have a fuel cut off valve under the tank. Owners manual indicated a valve near tank but did not see. Haven't removed seat back yet though, only seat bottom but did not see/feel valve there.
Mark |
larry_from_maryland
Senior Member
Username: larry_from_maryland
Post Number: 185
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 06:54 pm: |
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I have limited test equip for condensers.The thing i see is they wont light a test light,with one lead on wire and one on the outer case.I have seen condensers installed wrong with the wire connected with an insulateing washer between it and the spring arm of the points. |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 161
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 19, 2006 - 07:09 pm: |
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Im having trouble understanding what you just said about the condenser, It should be connected to the stationary side of the points, but insulated from ground. Its connection is through the contact points to the coil. This means its connected to one side of the points, but not grounded It acts as a buffer to control arcing at the points |
markc
New member
Username: markc
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 11:59 am: |
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Here is my understanding. Let me know if this doesn't sound correct.
The condenser/capacitor is in parallel with the points. The case of the condenser is tied to ground. The other side is tied to the low side of the coil primary as well as the movable or pivoting side of the points. The stationary side of the points is tied to ground also. See attached figure. For me I think I just have a bad condensor which is shorted or low resistance, since regardless or whether the points are open or closed I measure 60 ohms across the parallel circuit. Mark
 |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 162
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, July 20, 2006 - 12:08 pm: |
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If there is no change at all when opening and closing the points please be sure the contact surfaces of the points are clean and make good contact.
Roger} |
