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Message |
    
Chip
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 12:51 am: | 
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I am thinking about modifying my raw water cooling to accomodate a simple fresh water flush so I can flush the salt water out after use. Anyone have experience with this and want to comment as to potential "gotchas" and provide details as to the best (cheapest/easiest/most efficient) way to achieve this goal?
I see a through hull near my engine that has a hose going to a cut-off valve. The hose then goes into the engine. Could I simply put another valve in this path and provide an attachment for a fresh water hose from the pier? I am pretty new to this whole concept and don't really know how to approach it. Thanks again! |
Richard Shapiro
Member
Username: mainesails
Post Number: 7
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 07:48 am: |
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There is one "gotcha." If you feed the engine with water under pressure you risk flooding the engine with water. The system isn't designed to cope with that level of flow or pressure on the intake side.
It is far better to draw the water from a container.
That said, I've done it successfully with a hose, by cracking the valve so that the hose output just equalled the usual flow from the exhaust, but it still isn't a good idea. |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 115
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 11:45 am: |
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Fresh water flush is a good idea. A must for keeping the engine going. One way is to put a tee in the intake hose just above the intake valve. Then put a valve at the end of the hose comming off of the tee. At the end of each run place the loose hose into a bucket of water. Open the valve on the one in the bucket and close the intake valve. When the bucket is nearly empty shut down the engine. Close the valve on the one in the bucket and reopen the intake valve. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 308
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 07:59 pm: |
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Some may have seen a comment I made recently. I am aware of a man with a P-60 that for 30 years has flushed his engine with fresh water after every use and it is in excellent condtion. I like the bucket flush idea rather than city water pressure.Myself I would rig up a 6 gallon dry wall bucket and arange a hose connection near the bottom. Run a length of hose to a valve conenected to to a T in the inlet water line from the sea cock. Fill the dry wall bucketwith fresh water. With the engine running open the valve to the bucket and close the seacock when the dry wall bucket is nearly empty shut down the engine. Close the valve to the bucket and open the seacock so it is ready for the next run. This has the advantage of making sure the seacock is operable as too often they are not operated for months on end and they can get stuck. This should avoid that problem and alert you if the sea cock is not operating easily. You may want it close it in a hurry if you lose a hose connection or get a split in a hose. The nearly 6 gallons of fresh water insures you have probably more than enough flushed the salt out of the engine. |
David Stott
Member
Username: david_stott
Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2006 - 08:26 pm: |
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Similar to others above I shut off the seacock and open a valve to a short hose with a click on garden hose fitting. This is in a putt-putt with Stuart turner twin.
I attach a hose and let the engine pump from a bucket of water. It is easy to use, and I run it until the outlet water does not taste salty.
Just make sure you have valves to isolate the external hose fitting because if there is any airleak your engine may not suck raw water properley to prime the pump.
For an inexpensive method I have used plastic garden irrigation fittings available from your local hardware store. |
Dean
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 06:07 am: |
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On the manifold (valve) side of the block (opposite the flywheel), there is (lower flange) a small cover that could provide a through hole for an attachment to engage with the crankshaft. The gearing appears to be similar to the water pump, but would turn in the same direction as the alternator. I'm not sure on the speed, but perhaps the same as the water pump.
What is the attachment that IHC intended to provide at this fitting? Can this part be modified for driving a second water pump? Has anyone used this gear point to adapt the M-60 for heat exchanger cooling on a salt-water sailng vessel? |
chris davies
New member
Username: chris_davies
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 04:41 am: |
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pre season blues my p5 stuart inboard the handle has sheared of the seacock valve is there a way of lubricating the valve so i may be able to free it and turn with a pair of molegrips if not could reroute the inlet via a plastic tube over the side of my boat |
chris davies
New member
Username: chris_davies
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 04:48 am: |
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stuart p5 fuel supply problems i can tickle the carb which shows good supply turn the engine cylinder bore remains dry any suggestions to rectify and what plug gap should i use |
