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Message |
    
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 108
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 06:46 am: | 
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At last i am getting serious about my boat Juno.It is a twelve foot carvel hulled half cabin .
She has been out of the water for some time . I am at the moment high pressure water hosing out all the paint etc inside . This is working OK but to speed up the process I would like to apply a paint softener...something that is enviromently OK .
When all this is done I will be recaulking using the apprpriate grade of Sikoflex .Anyone got any ideas on the old paint removal? |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 293
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 08:34 am: |
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Peter, Have you investigated wet sand blasting. Or just high pressure water. I used water no sand on my garage and it did an amazing job removing old paint. I don't see any damage to the wood. It did not take if all off but a little scraping took off the residue. |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 109
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 19, 2006 - 07:03 pm: |
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Richard........so far I have just used HP water with my Alto washer. It is working ok just takes time . I am going to try a product called Citri -Strip . Citric acid based i guess . It is supposed to stay soft for 24 hrs . I have a supply of Citric Acid wondering if i could make up something .Maybe a mix of the Citric Acid granuals and a carrier ,some sort of gel .I'll see how it goes>.
In your post you mention sand ...not quite sure if you mean you are using sand/water or just water. |
marks
Senior Member
Username: marks
Post Number: 83
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 01:58 am: |
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Peter,
I've had this problem a few times. The only options I know of are:
1) Older Type Paint Stripper, Horrible smells, skin burns etc.
2) Newer non-toxic paint strippers like Citri-Strip. I like these they don't burn and don't smell as bad. They do take a while to work though and sometimes they do not remove "stubborn" paint.
3) Scraper. Also works well but is hell on the arms and shoulders. If you go this way learn how to sharpen.
4) Heat Gun or Torch with scraper. Easy to burn but works well on smooth sufaces so probably no good inside the boat(you'll end up burning ribs).
I've heard that walnut shells in a special type of sand blasting setup work the best. The Pro's use these things for large boats.
IMHO Citri-Strip is the best approach. I usually have one or at most two goes with it and then revert to the older style stripper for any spots that don't want to come off.
The other advice is caulking. This is an area that can lead to serious arguments beween various disciples of the various approaches.
It is not hard to traditionally caulk a boat, nor does it take much more time than Stinka Flex. It is probably cheaper and a lot more pleasant.
If you use Sika you should not use the stuff that you see in chandleries. It is much to hard and also acts like a glue. This means the boat can't move, nor can you pull it apart for repairs in the future. I can give you the code for the Sika that I use.
FWIW I've used both Sika and traditional caulking. To me it depends on the value(monetary, historical, traditional etc) of the boat versus the condition of the plank seams. Repairing bad plank seams does take time.
Cheers
Mark S. |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 110
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 07:16 am: |
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Thanks Mark......I am going to go with Sika and it would be interesting to know which grade you use. There are a lot of boat builders here professional and otherwise who agree with the Sika method . I have not yet reached the stage of applying the product. I will persevere with the water blasting and try the Citri -Strip.
Some one here just built a boat ,the Steadfast.It is a French Pilot Cutter ...certainly inspired me but I do not want to spread it over 17 years as he did!
Thanks for your interest. |
marks
Senior Member
Username: marks
Post Number: 83
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 05:02 pm: |
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Peter,
Sikaflex LM15 is the one which was recommended to me and I have used in the past, its actully used in the building industry. I can't find the remains of the last tube I used but I seem to recall that the LM15 has been superceded with a new product.
Beware that none of these thing stick properley to oily wood.
Good luck |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 112
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, February 20, 2006 - 06:12 pm: |
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Thanks Mark........yes I was aware of the oily wood problem .Fortunately i dont seem to have any traces of oil in the hull.
Reading back on Richards post his water and sand method might be worth ago. I think you can get a wet blast attachement for the Alto Pressure washers. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 210
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 22, 2006 - 04:48 pm: |
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I found that using the paint softener was OK, but using the HP washer to blast off the softened paint work very very well especially underneath the ribd in a clinker boat. I did an area of about 2 ft x 2 ft with thepaint softener and used t pressure washer. It left the wood undamaged (except where there was bad rot.
miro |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 114
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 06:01 am: |
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Miro ......What pressure does your washer operate at ? Mine is a basic Alto running at about 1000 psi . It is working ,getting most of the old stuff off .........just takes time . |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 296
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, February 23, 2006 - 07:33 am: |
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Peter, sorry about not coming back to you sooner on my wet sand blasting comment. My next door neighbor was given a nice fiberglass 26 foot hull that the bottom paint was a terrible mess. He tried everything to get it off. Finally a man tipped him off to get a 3000 pound pressure water sprayer and a dry sand pickup tube. Use fine sand and a fan spray. Hit it a very near parralel to to the surface and it will take it right off and leave a nice matt finish for a great tooth for the new paint. He did it and it was remarkably quick and no dust and no cutting into the fiber glass. Seems his friend also told of some kid in a boat yard assigned to do the same sort of job and all was going well until he stopped to talk to a passer by and left the gun running pointed at the hull. Needless to say he cut a large hole in the hull. I wonder if he was retained by the yard??? Dick |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 116
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, February 25, 2006 - 08:18 am: |
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3000 PSI ! That would pack some punch Richard. My little unit is getting a lot of it of so I will stick with it .As my hull is a carvel I am going to use a method suggested by a friend . To clean out the joints between each plank he used a small power saw . He set the depth so that it missed the ribs . He fixed a guide on the base plate of the saw and just followed the joint . It did a nice job and gave a good clean gap for the Sika flex .
May be that kid is in some other occupation ....politics? |
doctorbigdaddy
New member
Username: doctorbigdaddy
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2011
| | Posted on Sunday, October 23, 2011 - 10:23 am: |
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I am in the process of restoring a 26 foot St Lawrence skiff.It is strip construction over frame.The inside is double planked down to the bilge. there is varnish on the outside and the double planking inside was painted several times.I tried every type of stripper until I finally tried a heat -gun This works like a charm and does not burn the under wood. It leaves a small bit of the first coat of paint (1919)but this is then easily washed off with a methylene chloride or some other paint remover and a scothbright pad.( Wear a respirator)The other advantage is that by not using water and sand , you will have wood that is less than 18% moisture content which is essential for good penetration by two part epoxy which will stiffen up an old boat amazingly. You can paint or varnish over the epoxy. I reccomend a two part urethane paint as well as a two part urethane top coat |
