| Author |
Message |
    
David M.
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 01:18 pm: | 
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-Palmer-YT-1-Marine-Inboard-Engine-Trans_W0QQitemZ736 5526810QQcategoryZ66638QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem |
Roger DiRuscio
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 185
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Friday, November 11, 2005 - 01:30 pm: |
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why is it, the cool engines are alway 3000 miles away???????
murphy is that you?? |
Andrew Menkart
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 1242
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, November 14, 2005 - 07:48 pm: |
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If anyone finds out the serial number of it please post it here.
 |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 631
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2005 - 02:52 pm: |
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It has no tag so it will be in the unknown bunch. If I had to guess it is a later engine. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 479
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 06:54 am: |
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If it has a petcock below the breather valve with that model breather valve it probably would be between 1926 and 1937. I have no data when that style reverse gear with its connection to the YT-1 or YT-2 came on stream. MOst were flange couplings between engine and reverse gear. The reverse gear is mid 1920s. The mounting rails are Palmer style so I expect they are original.
If there are two 8/32 threaded screw holes on the aft portion of the Port mounting webb then it is post 1930 when the tag was moved from the forward upper face of the cylinder so the serial number would not be lost if a cylinder was replaced. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 480
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2005 - 07:18 am: |
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More info. The Manufacturers Foundry Company, Waterbury Ct. logo says 1937 or later as Palmer ceased using their local foundry in 1936/37. The MFCO in a horizontal triangle is seen on many Palmer casting post 1937. The cast Palmer logo, a flag and/or name and part letters/numbers are seen on many castings from the early years to the end of the company. Most but not all cylinders have B, L, NL, R, NR RW, ZR etc. cast on their lower cylinder skirt. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 634
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2005 - 07:09 pm: |
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Looks like Mike Collin got it. Mike?? |
Mike Collin
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 08:37 pm: |
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Yes Ernie. I did. Looks like the garage fund is a little smaller after this purchase. A little pricey, but still worth it I hope. I spoke with the seller and he seems to think that his dad never installed it in a boat. Not sure about the previous owner though. I am concerned about the water jacket, but after all of those years, the pictures don't seem to show any damage. I'll know for sure when I pick it up next Saturday.
Is the Zenith 61 the same carb used on the Model 27? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 483
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 07:53 am: |
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Yes |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 635
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 08:42 am: |
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YUP as Mr Day said. I can show you how to make a manifold that will look real good and won't cost much. I have one on mine and it's almost impossible to tell it from original. |
Mike Collin
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 12:12 pm: |
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Well, my YT came home yesterday. My friend Peter Eastman and myself made the trek to Stamford to pick it up. Initially, the water jacket looks OK. I removed the plug at the water inlet to find a very small amount of scale inside. I will remove the head tonight and investigate further. Engine seems fairly tight with no clunking or excess play. Not too much compression though.
I also noticed several non-Palmer fasteners, namely head nuts/cylinder bolts. I will try to take a bunch of pics tonight and post them. I also can't see any evidence of where the tag would be attached. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 640
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 01:23 pm: |
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Mike,
The tag on yours would have been flat the mounting flange opposite the water pump. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 490
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 04:27 pm: |
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Mike look for two approx 6/32 threaded screw holes about 2-5/8" apart on the aft face of the port mounting webb. They may be full of paint. Why pull the head unless you have to just take out the four cap screws that hold the cylinder to the crankcase and you can examine the inside of the head that way. If you pull the head you may then have a problem with the head gasket and they are not easy to find and not cheap to have made.
Regards, Dick |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 641
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 05:01 pm: |
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I just make headgaskets out of the stuff Lee Pederson sells. There are at least half a dozen YT1s around New England that have that style of headgasket in them. Takes about 5 min to tap one out with a little ball peen hammer |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 491
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 05:35 pm: |
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Ernie my sucess rate is just about zero in that endevour. Glad you are able to create workable ones next time I need one I will know where to go. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 642
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2005 - 10:35 pm: |
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The trick is the water passages. I mark them and use a gasket punch. I only use a hammer on the head studs and inner diameter. I do the final cut on the outer diameter after the head is bolted to the cylinder. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 268
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 08:16 pm: |
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I keep a cheap set of forstner bits at the shop, lay the head on the gasket material placed on a board and drill the stud holes. I also have some homemade tools, old pusrods or pipe cut and ground with a "fish mouth" will drill a gasket without tear out or pulling. I also have a circle cutting jig from a hobby shop that works great on round head gaskets. |
George Coates
Senior Member
Username: george_iv
Post Number: 135
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Monday, November 28, 2005 - 08:27 pm: |
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A knife blade in a saber saw works pretty good for cutting water passage shapes, too. Sometimes they can be bought or it is pretty easy to grind the teeth off an old blade and sharpen to suit. |
