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| Information on a 4hp Ferro two stroke... |
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Rob in Maine
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 08:53 pm: | 
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I am looking for any information on a Ferro 2 stroke single. I'm somewhat confused by the fact that it has oil in the base and it looks to have a vacuum sump system. No reeds are to be seen. It has a 4 block oil system that pumps oil to two main bearings but it looks like no 2 stroke I have seen. Tough to be a neophyte. This is going in a restoration project of a 19' Swampscott Dory. An article i9n Wooden boat calls for a 2.5 Ferro two stroke so this is probably not the original engine but is almost the same physical size and was with the boat. I need to know approx RPM's I'm going to be looking at(Short stroke). so I can choose one of the five props that were in a box. Different shaft sizes so it does mean choosing. I would also like to know the color scheme for the motor. Bronze carb and several bearing covers but unknown on engine base, head, and cylinder. Any info would help. I'll try to get some pictures if that would help. e-mail [email protected] Thanks Rob-Maine |
rbprice
| | Posted on Thursday, April 25, 2002 - 09:55 pm: |
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Hello Rob in Maine -
I have two Ferro Specials, one circa 1905 with an original Ferro caburetor and one, circa 1906/7 with a Schebler carburetor. Both engines are two cycle (stroke) three port. The fuel/air mixture is slightly compressed in the crankcase and released when the piston decends far enuf to uncover the fuel by-pass port hence no check valve or reed valve.
As for propeller sizing, search this web site for the subject of propellers, there are several good postings on the subject but a quick rule of thumb would be for a three blade prop its diameter should be approx. the same as the I.D. of the flywheel and should be square, i.e. 12 X 12 etc.
As for the lubrication system, that also dates the engine to the era before everyone switched over to oil mixed with the fuel as a much more reliable lubrication method. Again, there are postings on this site that talk about that and I'm sure some other folks will chime in on that.
Color, according to one of my Ferro catalogs, is "high quality black enamel"
Can you plse tell me the date of the Wooden Boat article?
Cheers
Bob Price |
Rob in Maine
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 08:10 pm: |
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I have tried three times to post this. Being computer illiterate is a real bummer. Thanks Bob for the info on the Ferro. I found a photocopy of the article. It turns out to not be in Wooden Boat but in some other book about Swampscott Dories. I have a friend with the book and he's getting me the title. I did replicate my copy. It's missing one (the last) page but still is good. It covers putting motors into dories in Boston at the turn of the century. Send me an address and I'll send it out. |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2002 - 09:15 pm: |
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The early Ferro lubricating system was unique. I cannot say I have ever run into any other engine with the Ferro system. In simple terms there is a vertical standpipe (brass tube about 1 inch in diameter) hanging in the tube is the on/off control for the oil supply to the drip oilers. When you drop it down the top is sealed and the oil will then flow from the separate compartment cast in the side of the crankcase. The oil compartment is filled through the standpipe opening in the base. On the forward Starboard webb you will find a hex nut that contains a check ball that permits crankcase pressure to travel into the oil storage compartment but not flow back. This check valve often gets blocked with crud and needs to be cleaned for it to function properly. My advice is to avoid (but save it) the oiling system and mix 40:1 SAE non-deterent motor oil in the fuel. Don't use modern two-cycle oil in the fuel or you may have the coast guard breathing down your neck for an unecessay oil slick on the water. You are supposed to burn the oil in the cylinder not spew it out the exhaust pipe. These engines may be two-cycle but they are not chain saws or weed wackers. You could put grease cups on the crankshaft oiling points and use old time water pump grease to lube the shaft. About once every half hour give the grease cups a 1/2 turn. The oiling system is so unreliable that it is just too risky to depend on it. Thats how I see the lube problem. |
Rob in Maine
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 08, 2002 - 07:57 am: |
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Thanks for the info. Very useful and this is on a lake setup. Don't want to oil calm waters. |
ernie
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 08, 2002 - 02:12 pm: |
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Rob,
I have Ferro sales literature available. This also tells how the lube system works with good diagrams. E mail me for more info.
Ernie |
Rob in Maine
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 08, 2002 - 02:42 pm: |
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Ernie. I can't seem to be able to find an e-mail address for you. I would very much like to see any diagrams. my address is [email protected] Let me know yours. Next questions probably surround timing and spark plugs. Any info is great. Thanks to all who have responded. Rob |
ernie
| | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2002 - 08:22 am: |
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Rob,
Just click on my name at the top of my post. It will take you to a nonexistant profile. However my e mail address is there, just click on it. I just tried it and it worked. If that still gives you a problem my e mail is:
[email protected]
Have a good one
E |
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