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Message |
    
Ian
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, July 15, 2005 - 04:33 pm: | 
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I am operating a 1950 BH 25 for the 5th season in a 1952 wooden sloop.In the first 3 seasons the total usage was probably less than 4hrs.(99% of the time I sail on and off the mooring) In those first 3 seasons the engine under load would blow quite a bit of oil in a pattern on the engine lid coming off the flywheel.I chaulked this up to an old engine with not much left in the way of seals. Last season after noticing in your manual, I reduced the amount of oil in the crankcase to the mark on the dipstick.(previously I had added almost a full fresh quart after changing) Well she ran much better and blew only a trace of oil. I even forced myself to run her for 2 hours one late fall day. This spring I noticed the oil level was almost half again above the mark after last fall's oil change.I drained down to the mark and then out of curiosity drained and measured the amount from the mark.One pint (cold engine)was all that came out.
Thinking this far too little an amount,I put back in slightly less than a quart. My annual run on launch day from dock to mooring (10 mins.) created all that blown oil again. Should I ignore the amount and just run it at the mark? I know that not all the oil drains out(even with warm engine drain in the fall) but is the mark enoughfor protection if the crank is supposed to cary a quart? |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 425
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 05:34 pm: |
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What is the angle of the engine in the boat? I think the breather valve is not working. In a four cycle closed crankcase single cylinder engine you have to have a breather valve that opens when the piston comes down and closes when the piston goes up. If this is not working it will allow/force oil out of any availble opening. I would take the breather valve apart and make sure it isn't so gunked up that it cannot operate correctly. Doubt this has anything to do with depth of oil in the crankcase. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 426
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2005 - 07:27 am: |
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I forgot to ad the breather valve for the BH is in the oil fill cap. |
Ian
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2005 - 09:53 am: |
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Thanks for the reply Mr. Day. I have obsessed over that valve for 5 years! Hoping that would be an easy solution. I clean it each season but have never been sure of the adjustment. Last year (when she blew little to no oil) I had adjusted it to a more closed position - I think I may have closed it a bit more this year. Maybe no air is able to be expelled. As to engine angle it appears to be very little to none. I have a step down keel which enables the engine to be set down low (with yet another 1 1/2 ft of access below it). Wouldn't the potentially high oil level exacerbate clogging the breather? Also should the filler cap have a gasket? Thanks, Ian |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 427
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2005 - 08:09 pm: |
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There is a scew in the top of the breather valve its function is to hold the valve tight against the wire clip that goes below the valve the rubber ring is then free to move with the metal disk following the engine crankcase pressure/vacuum. The fit on the filler should be very good and no serious air gap around it.I don't see any adjustment of the valve is necessary. Make sure the holes in the rubber ring are clear of gunk for it to operate properly. What do you mean by closing it?? Best I can offer. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 429
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 08:07 pm: |
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The attached photo should explain the operation of the BH breather valve. The cap is removable for adding oil to the BH. It typically takes about a quart of 30 oil. The following should help understanding how the breather valve works. It goes without saying it has to be kept clean and the parts must move freely except the entire valve unit must be held inplace by the screw in the top of the cap. There is no adjustment to the breather valve. Just keep it clear of gunk and make sure the metal disk on top of the rubber washer snad the rubber washer moves freely. A cotter pin not clearly shown in the photo limits the travel of the metal disk and rubber washer. The wire clip #4 keeps the valve from droping into the crankcase. The #1 pipe extention simply raises the valve body above the crankcase. The bottom disk of the valve body has small holes that must be kept clear for the valve to function. When the piston goes down the pressure increase in the crankcase forces the rubber washer of its seat and when the piston goes up the metal washer on top of the rubber washer causes the rubber washer to return to its seat. The cotter pin simply limits the upward travel of the rubber and metal washers.Without the cotter pin the travel is too much for correct operation of the valve.
It the screw in the cap is not tight on the shaft of the valve the whole valve can move and that negates the function of the valve to a large degree.
The cap is simply a press fit in the pipe extention and easily removed for oil change or addition of oil. |
Ian
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2005 - 08:35 pm: |
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Thanks again for the detailed description. (can't find the photo attachment?) The valve you are describing doesn't quite sound like mine. I'm going to have to look at my set up when I go to the boat this weekend. please send the photo again or to my email (jpeg is all I
can receive). Thanks for your patience! |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 527
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 04:30 pm: |
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here is the photo
 |
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Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 01:42 pm: |
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