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| Author |
Message |
    
Graham
| | Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 04:21 pm: | 
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I have a Palmer engine in our trimarran, from the help I've been given from this forum I'm certain it's a P-60. When we got the boat the choke cable was disconnected and the PO started the engine while holding the choke closed manually, you then had to release the choke immediately to prevent stalling. Now I've reconnected the choke cable it seems as if the engine runs best with the choke slightly closed, also if the throttle is advanced too quickly you can hear the carb sucking hungrily for air and often it will stall. Any advice on tuning and carb adjustments would be appreciated. Thanks. |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Monday, December 15, 2003 - 04:40 pm: |
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My first thought is to check the fuel filter and fuel line to make sure it isn't starving the carburetor. If that isn't the problem then open the needle valve a little and see if the engine settles down. If it doesn't remove the carburetor, and get a NAPA carburetor rebuild kit 2-1565. It is an easy carburetor to rebuild just take it easy with the hammer and chisel. Look for such things as dirt in the inlet to the float valve where the gasoline line joins the carburetor. Blow out the jets with compressed air and reasemble. While you are at it also make sure the air bleed line on the forward top of the cylinder head is clear. If it is not kept clear you can run into overheating at the worst possible time. It is a small either rubber or copper tube about 6" long and it connects to the thermostat housing to vent any steam or air build up in the head. It has nothing to do with your carburetor problem it is just one of those details that tend to get overlooked by the typical marina mechanic. Good luck. |
Graham
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:31 am: |
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Thanks Richard,
Following the dire warnings posted earlier by you, the first thing I did when last at the boat was to check the air bleed line, thankfully it was clear. There is an electric fuel pump that ticks away steadily while the engine runs and the filters seem clean, I'll check again though. Where on the carb is the needle valve you refer to? The PO mentioned an air ajustment screw on the carb, there is a small screw with a slotted and knurled head visible when looking over the manifold from the flywheel end that I've tried adjusting, however it didn't seem to make much difference. Could you please advise on approximately how many turns out this screw should be as a starting point? The engine runs smooth as silk at higher revs, but stalls if throttle is opened too quickly from idle speed, (read going into reverse to avoid hitting dock!)Thanks again. |
Eddie
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 02:55 pm: |
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Graham,
I hope you will go through your ignition and make sure it is up to snuff. Having weak ignition components can really frustrate your efforts and may even be the main culprit.
Eddie |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 05:25 pm: |
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Graham send me an e-mail with your snail mail address and I will send you a carburetor spec/adjustment sheet for the P-60. |
Graham
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 06:36 pm: |
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Eddie, replaced coil, condensor and points six months or so ago, little use since then.Thanks for the advise though. Graham |
Eddie
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 11:03 pm: |
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Graham,
I have a 32 ft sailboat with a P-60 engine. When I first had the boat it would often die when going in gear from neutral. Also it would quit while cruising for no apparent reason. Getting into the ignition I found that the previous owner changed points and condenser without replacing the distributor cap. The cap had carbon trails both inside and out. Later I traced the intermittant dying out problem to an old ignition switch. Finishing it out with new spark plug wires it has since, now 4 years, run flawlessly. I now replace the distributor cap, rotor and spark plugs every year. Other components less often or as symtoms indicate. Because of the old style of the engine I found that an old tune up guide, published in the 1970's, was a great trouble shooting help.
My rule of thumb has been to absolutely rule out everything electrical before taking on the carburator.
Eddie |
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