Author |
Message |
Ralph Walters
| Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 09:33 pm: |
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Today I bought a Kermath engine. It doesn't have a nameplate, only the name cast on the head. It needs a magneto. Also, I would like any literature that may be available. |
andrew
| Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 09:41 pm: |
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Ralph, Can you describe it further...? The "recent" Kermath two cylinder engine was the 2 cylinder Sea Pup, which later became the Atomic 2.
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Bruce
| Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 10:04 pm: |
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Andrew; Do you have info on a single cylinder Kermath of this vintage? It has a transmission and electric start. It's 19" long. |
andrew
| Posted on Monday, September 23, 2002 - 10:41 pm: |
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Bruce, Does it look like this...
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Dorman McShan
| Posted on Tuesday, September 24, 2002 - 01:30 am: |
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I have a Ranger 28 that was fitted with an Atomic 2 that looks very much like the one in your picture. Mine, however, is fitted with a 35 amp alternator instead of a generator. I'm having some problem with oil pressure and haven't been able to find the cause. Would you know if these engines were problematic in this department? Also, are there any parts still around? Thanks in advance. Dorman McShan |
dave
| Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2002 - 06:21 pm: |
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The single cylinder Kermath was the "Sea Pup" rated at 5 HP and the 2 cylinder version was the "Sea Twin" rated at 10 HP. The later versions of the Sea Pup used a WICO ZH2286 mag while the Sea Twin used a WICO ZH2392. Generators and electric starters were optional. I have an Instruction Book that covers both published by Ballantine Industries. |
Ralph Walters
| Posted on Thursday, October 03, 2002 - 07:44 pm: |
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Thanks for the reply. My engine looks like the drawing from Andrew. I was going to try to use a magneto from a twin Wisconsin TFD. It's a F-M X1-2B7.Ralph Looks like the engine isn't all that old. I'll try to get it running anyway. Where can I get gaskets, rings, etc? Dave- I'd like to have a copy of your book, or some of the important pages. |
dave
| Posted on Friday, October 04, 2002 - 09:55 am: |
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Ralph, if you send me your address I will mail you a copy. If there are additional requests I can scan it in and post it on the bulletin board for download. I can't imagine the copyright is still in effect. Ralph, what serial number is your Kermath? The engine part number is cast in on the starboard side while the serial number is stamped somewhere around the water pump. The bore is 2 3/4" and the ring gap clearance is .015" minimum. Rings were available in .005, .010 and .020 oversize. These are pretty standard sizes. I will try and dig up the compression and oil sweeper ring thickness for you. On the gaskets, start cutting. The single was built as early as 1938 perhaps earlier. I have documentation on that. They were sold by Universal, Lauson and in Canada by Kermath well into the 50's. Kermath was purchased by Granite State Machine Company and then sold to Universal in 1975. The single was listed for $138 without the options in an undated add I have. Good luck. |
Ralph Walters
| Posted on Sunday, October 06, 2002 - 09:35 pm: |
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Dave- The number cast in the side is C-17268. The stamped number near the water pump is C 610525. I'll appreciate the assembly instructions, particularly regarding the oil pump. Ralph Walters 37 Cepp Rd. Perkiomenville, PA 18074-9697 Thanks |
dave
| Posted on Tuesday, October 08, 2002 - 08:40 pm: |
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OK I have copied the manual and it will mail tomorrow. I also trotted over to the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton and went through their library. They are packing for the big move across the street so it was a real adventure. I was dead wrong on the vintage of the engine pictured. They did have 5HP engines in 1938 but they were twins. From what I can see in Kermath literature, and most of it isn't dated the Sea Pup was first introduced as the "16 - 5" in a 1948 letter to their dealers. At the time Kermath was a division of Barium Steel. It was advertised as 5 HP in 16 cu. in. but quickly seems to have become the 1 - 18 (presumably a 1 lunger of 18 cubic inches). It would be interesting to know if there were really any 16 - 5's shipped or if the sales people jumped the gun a little. Weight on the 16 and the later 18 Sea Pup are spec'd the same. and of course the Sea Pup is 18 cu. in. It was named the Sea Pup in a Kermath/Barium, add of 1953. Colors were either Kerry Blue or Red enamel over primer. In 1959 it was still being sold as the Sea Pup by Ballantine Industries of Absecon NJ who had taken over Kermath. If anyone has a more complete or more accurate account I would appreciate hearing from you. |
dave
| Posted on Wednesday, October 09, 2002 - 04:51 pm: |
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One more post. I think you will be able to get a magneto from Bill at [email protected] Good luck. |
Ralph Walters
| Posted on Friday, October 18, 2002 - 09:19 pm: |
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I recieved a letter (and promptly lost it, don't even remember the name)That said I can't use a FM Wisconsin magneto on the Kermath due to different timing, etc. A correct mag. was offered , but would cost more than $250.00. If I can't find something for around $150, I'll have an engine(sans Ign.) for sale. Can anyone help? |
dave
| Posted on Saturday, October 26, 2002 - 12:46 pm: |
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Ralph, Standard Magneto of Chicago Illinois produces replacements for the original WICO. |
Ernie
| Posted on Sunday, October 27, 2002 - 08:55 am: |
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These engines have the weirdest oil system I have seen. There is a little plunger pump for pressure, (not unusual) however to get oil to the rod journal there are 2 internal neoprene seals on the crankshaft that have to be in good condidion for it to work correctly. The engine that I rebuilt was a single, I suspect a twin would have 4 of these seals. If you look at the cutaway pic in the manual you can see them. The mains are ball bearings. So to get oil to the rod there is a hole in the crank next to the main bearing that goes to the rod journal. There is a seal on each side of the hole so oil pressure gets to the rod journal. If any of the seals are hard (leaking) oil pressure will leak and not get to the rod as well as be low. Actually simple just fussy. I had a manual, however I can't find it at this time. The mag isue....If you can find a mag that will fit, fit means physically mount to the engine and turns the correct direction it will work. On the subject of timing for any of these old engines, THEY ARE NOT FUSSY! Not yelling just being emphatic. Set the timing so the impulse trips (when the mag snaps) at TDC or just after. Out of hundreds of engines I have never (yet) had one that didn't run just fine. Hope this helps Ernie |
Ralph Walters
| Posted on Friday, February 28, 2003 - 07:47 pm: |
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At long last, I've got my engine together, have a magneto that produces a great spark. Timing is way off. There isn't a timing mark on the gear that drives the magneto. I suppose I could get it close by trial & error as suggested above, but I'd like to get it right on the first time. Any sugestions? Ralph |
Roy Ostrowsky
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 10:24 pm: |
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Looking for Kermath Universal Atomic 2 parts engine and trans,also literature. |
Roy Ostrowsky
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 10:37 pm: |
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Regarding my preveous message,not sure of correct name but it is the one in the picture presented by Andrew. |
Roy Ostrowsky
| Posted on Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 10:28 pm: |
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Looking for Kermath Sea Twin parts,motor and trans Will consider most anything |
Roy Ostrowsky
| Posted on Saturday, March 20, 2004 - 10:15 pm: |
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Looking for Sea Twin parts,Engine and trans.Roy |
Jean Miele
| Posted on Friday, March 26, 2004 - 05:23 pm: |
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I need an exhaust manifold for my 40hp 1966 universal 4 cyl gas engine |
Mark
| Posted on Saturday, June 05, 2004 - 08:07 pm: |
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How can I test my Mag to see if it's sending enough voltage? I can see a spark across the plug but it seems weak. Is that possible? (new spark plug and wire were just installed) |
JohnC
Visitor
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 04:13 pm: |
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Hi In 1983 I bought an Atomic 2 Marine Engine The engine has been in storage for 20 years, it was never installed or use, actually is 20 year old brand new engine. Now I am retired and I want to istall the engine in my sail boat, but the engine is "FROZEN" I took off the sparkplugs and poured diesel fuel, but no luck. Do you have any idea of what could I do without putting the engine apart. Any sugestion will be greatly appreciated. Thak you John |
andrew
Moderator Username: andrew
Post Number: 845 Registered: 11-2001
| Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2004 - 06:25 pm: |
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John, You should put "penetrating oil" in the cylinder instead of diesel. You can buy a gallon at your local auto parts store... Marvel Mystery Oil or similar. Let the penetrating oil work for a while. But if it has sat for 20 years you are likely going to have to do a certain amount of disassembly at a minimum. Next step will be to take the head off. |
John C
Visitor
| Posted on Saturday, September 04, 2004 - 11:05 pm: |
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Hi: Is there some place where I can gat Atomic 2 parts like rings, valves,etec. etc. Any input will be appreciated. I am rebuilding my Atomic 2 |
mike_stellato
New member Username: mike_stellato
Post Number: 1 Registered: 09-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2004 - 01:41 pm: |
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You might check with Ike Stephenson with Torresen Marine. If you do an internet search, you will find a chandlery in Canada that says it has parts for the Atomic engines. Might even have some "2" parts |
Charles Silvia
Visitor
| Posted on Friday, July 22, 2005 - 02:33 pm: |
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Has anyone had any luck finding either parts or owners manuals to the Kermath Universal Atomic 2? I have one in my 25-foot O’Day and would really appreciate some feel back. |
Charles Silvia
Visitor
| Posted on Friday, July 22, 2005 - 02:35 pm: |
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That should have beed feedback |
John Jordan
Visitor
| Posted on Friday, September 30, 2005 - 01:29 am: |
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I am trying to put together this Atomic 2 Engine I have several problems; One is that the engine has one water inlet and outlet bisides the one on the water pump the one that goes into the engine. The the inlet and outlet I am referring is located behind the fuel pump and is a T type. Another problem is that I dont know where the Oil sender goes and last I want to be sure that the temp sender is located on the same water overflow line that goes to the exhaust. If some body can help me with my problem I would appreciate very much. Thank you |
john_anthony
New member Username: john_anthony
Post Number: 1 Registered: 10-2005
| Posted on Friday, October 07, 2005 - 07:08 pm: |
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He is the "Engine" Atomic 2 10HP. But I dont know what is the part on the right of the carburator. Has one inlet one outlet and a plug in the midle. Is this part has to do anything with the cooler system? Because as you can see the engine has olso a Oberdofer water pump with one intake and one out let (The hose that goes into the engine block). If some body knows about this part please let me know. Thank you John Anthony Editor's Note: John is going to try to post a better picture |
john_anthony
New member Username: john_anthony
Post Number: 2 Registered: 10-2005
| Posted on Friday, October 14, 2005 - 04:15 pm: |
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Here is the new Picture |
john_anthony
New member Username: john_anthony
Post Number: 3 Registered: 10-2005
| Posted on Saturday, October 15, 2005 - 11:42 pm: |
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Is this a Dole Thermostat. If it is Do you know is The Dole Company is still in business or where I could get an installation manual. Thank you John Anthony |
L. Hughston
Visitor
| Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 02:54 pm: |
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I have a Kermath single. This is an early version with the name "Edison" cast into the magneto cap. I have no spark on the magneto. I had opened the magneto and the sring was released when I pulled off the drive cover on the gear side. I carefully put it back together. All was reassembled per Kermath manual. What am i doing wrong with the magneto? ---Larry Hughston |
richardday
Senior Member Username: richardday
Post Number: 467 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Monday, October 17, 2005 - 03:52 pm: |
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John, That thermostat housing is so similar to the inline DOLE I suspect it is a Dole. I tried to track Dole down and got nowhere but the thermostat for the Dole unit similar to the unit on your engine is listed in some one of the entryies on the OME page. If you plan to run in salt water get a 143 degree thermostat. A 165 degree would be fine for fresh water. If that is a new engine don't cool with salt water. Cool with a 50:50 mix of fresh water with automotive anti freeze and use a keel cooler or heat exchanger for the engine including the exhaust manifold. Send the sea water down the exhaust pipe aft of the manifold to cool and quiet the exhaust. |
john_anthony
Member Username: john_anthony
Post Number: 5 Registered: 10-2005
| Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 01:30 pm: |
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Thak you Richard for your information. Now asuming this is a Dole thermostat to what I do connect the inlet?. Because I also have an inlet in de Oberdofer water pump. Also you have give me idias about a fresh water system and because I see your Palmer Logo I asume you are en the Marine Engine Busines and as I don not want to abuse of your kindness. I would like to kow if you sell any information or Book in which I can read about a fresh water system. Thank you again John Anthony |
richardday
Senior Member Username: richardday
Post Number: 469 Registered: 11-2003
| Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2005 - 08:26 pm: |
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John I am not in business I just have a hobby collecting Palmer marine engines and writing about them. Send me a mailing adress and I will put some material in the mail for you. The basic way the dole Thermostat works is it returns a percentage of the cooling water back to the input to the cold water inlet from the seacock or heat exchanger if that is used. It in effects keeps the hot water from rising above whatever temp the thermostat is set for. |
john_anthony
Member Username: john_anthony
Post Number: 6 Registered: 10-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2005 - 02:15 am: |
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Richard my E-Mail address is [email protected] Thank you very much. |
poker casino79 Visitor
| Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 01:55 pm: |
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Michael Keane
New member Username: walkintee
Post Number: 1 Registered: 07-2007
| Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 02:16 am: |
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I have a Kermath Sea Pup 5 hp in my sailboat and have oil blowing out the transmission breather tube. Anybody know why? Is there someone who fixes these things or even sells parts? Michael [email protected] |
Joe Holmes
Member Username: joe_h
Post Number: 13 Registered: 05-2005
| Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2007 - 02:23 am: |
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Try Danny at M&M Surplus [email protected] |
Eric Ihli
New member Username: eihli
Post Number: 1 Registered: 05-2008
| Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:33 am: |
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If there is any literature still floating around on this, would anyone mind emailing it to [email protected] please? Thanks a million. |
CHARLES G. FISCHER
Visitor
| Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 09:24 pm: |
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HOW DO I SET THE TIMING GEAR ON THE ATOMIC 2? THERE ARE NO MARKS. I HAVE THE WICO XH MAGNETO INSTRUCTION MANUAL, BUT IT ASSUMES THE TIMING GEAR IS INSTALLED CORRECTLY. SOMEBODY HAS MUCKED WITH THIS ENGINE AND MAGNETO. THANKS |
Jack Tar
New member Username: jtar1775
Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2024
| Posted on Tuesday, April 16, 2024 - 07:38 am: |
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I have recently purchased a 1957 Norge auxiliary sail with a Ballantine Sea Twin gas powered inboard. I am trying to locate the manuals IOT restore it. I am looking for Kermath, Ballantine, Universal manuals for a Sea Twin or Atomic 2 gas, two cylinder marine engine. Also I am trying to locate manuals for Auto-lite generator (GAS 4194-1), Auto-lite starter (MAK 4031), Wico magneto ( XH2392) and zodiac carburetor 87 series. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |