| Author |
Message |
    
kevin stone
Senior Member
Username: kdstone
Post Number: 72
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, May 27, 2017 - 08:54 am: | 
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Hello to the group. I'm about to change out the head gasket on our p-60. I have one of the copper gaskets from gaskets to go. Question is should I use a gasket sealer such as spray on copper coat? Also I would like to get new head bolts, does anyone know the bolt type? Can i buy at an auto parts?
Thanks for any response
Kevin |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 89
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 12:06 pm: |
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Kevin,
My suggestion is for you to use a sealer like Permetex red around the water passages. Be sure to install the gasket "up" side up. You can get a set of head bolts from me if you need them. Check on www.boatcityyachts.com under David's Yacht Service, Palmer 60 parts.
David Grosse |
kevin stone
Senior Member
Username: kdstone
Post Number: 73
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, May 28, 2017 - 05:03 pm: |
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Thanks David, the copper gasket from gaskets to go has no markings to tell up or down. Only difference I can see is the one side is where the copper partially wraps around the openings. |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 90
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Monday, May 29, 2017 - 01:42 pm: |
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Kevin,
I have compared the gaskets for fresh water use and those for salt water use.
The fresh water gaskets are clearly marked "this side up", on the side where the metal is rolled over and has an edge around the combustion chamber and around the cooling water passages. This gasket is also one side metal, and the other side is some other gasket material (the up side). The "down" side is solid metal, without roll over joints.
The salt water gasket rolls the copper both up and down around the circular water passages, and only one way around the combustion chambers and the long water passages. Both gasket faces are copper, unlike the fresh water gasket.
Given the above, and a lack of recommendation from the manufacturer, I suggest you install it with the combustion chamber holes solid on the block, and the roll up metal on the top (the same way the fresh water gasket is installed. I also recommend that all water passages in the copper gasket get sealer above and below the gasket, and that the head and block get filed flat before assembly, including any thread inserts in the block.
Hope this helps.
David Grosse
David's Yacht Service |
kevin stone
Senior Member
Username: kdstone
Post Number: 74
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 29, 2017 - 06:53 pm: |
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Thanks very much. I emailed gaskets to go and he said it did not matter. I will follow your suggestions just to
Be safe. Thanks again |
Ben Sidaway
Member
Username: b_sidaway
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2011
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 04, 2017 - 12:20 am: |
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Just received a head gasket from gaskets-to-go. What torque settings should I use for this gasket. My previous gasket was solid copper gasket that I coated with copper spray. Smithcorp marine services recommended torqueing to 30 lbs initially and then 45-50 lbs on the second go around with that gasket. Would these settings be appropriate for the crushable gasket from gaskets to go? Previous posts have said 45 lbs is the setting value. Does this apply to crushable and non crushable gaskets. |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 93
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Thursday, July 06, 2017 - 12:11 pm: |
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Ben,
Yes, 45 Ft Lbs is the correct torque setting for the sandwich gasket. Most people use a three step process to get there like 25 - 35 - 45. And you should follow the recommended torque sequence to tighten the bolts (nuts).
I also recommend that the water passages be treated with a sealant like Permatex red on both the top and bottom of the gasket to prevent leakage.
David Grosse
David's Yacht Service |
