| Author |
Message |
    
narrabay
Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 29
Registered: 02-2016
| | Posted on Friday, March 11, 2016 - 01:37 pm: | 
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Hi all, More somewhat newb questions, I am wondering what is the typical shaft size from the period of these single cylinder engines? I see what looks like 10-12" wheel, not sure about the shafts, guessing 3/4"
also what is common shaft log stuff box diameter that the rubber hose section clamps on? I'm going to guess 2"
thanks! |
preventec47
Member
Username: preventec47
Post Number: 6
Registered: 08-2016
| | Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 08:36 pm: |
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Those are good questions.... Where are museums that house the greatest number of these boats because we are going to have to go and take the measurements ourselves.
Scott  |
kayak
Member
Username: kayak
Post Number: 18
Registered: 06-2016
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2016 - 11:34 am: |
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I was the original poster and since that time have come to the conclusion that 3/4" is the best all around size. 1/2" would in my view be too flimsy and easily bent, and 1" is for most low hp applications too heavy. There is 7/8" but not quite as common (going by marine consignment shop inventory, and searches). I went with 1" because it was common, only a couple extra pounds and I tend to overbuild things in an almost Soviet fashion! |
david_doyle
Senior Member
Username: david_doyle
Post Number: 74
Registered: 03-2013
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2016 - 01:39 pm: |
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Would really like to hear/see how the machining of this shaft/fitting of joints etc is carried out. Especially the taper.
If you could post some notes on challenges/successes that would be appreciated.
I am guessing you have not drug home a rusty/worn 9 inch lathe yet?
 |
kayak
Member
Username: kayak
Post Number: 19
Registered: 06-2016
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2016 - 05:14 pm: |
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Hi Dave, the only taper is at the prop. I bought a approx 4ft 1" diameter prop shaft at consignment which already fits my prop so that end is fine. I dont have a lathe, dont have room for one, and do not even have the skill to do basic lathe ops. So, I will cut the shaft into the front and back pieces and a machinist will add the keyway for the universal joint. All thats left after that is the deployable "device" strut whih is really just a single pivot at the front with a crank handle and a brake, and the tail end of course has the pivoting cutlass bearing holder which is just two ears and a through bolt. Its not rocket science but it will take some trial and error but I have some help as well.
I am most concerned to make the front pivot etc right than anything else. |
preventec47
Member
Username: preventec47
Post Number: 9
Registered: 08-2016
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2016 - 07:10 pm: |
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What is/does deployable device mean ? |
kayak
Member
Username: kayak
Post Number: 21
Registered: 06-2016
| | Posted on Saturday, August 27, 2016 - 07:54 pm: |
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Google "dispro" old retractable inboard propeller system from 100 years ago. there are great videos on vimeo (not youtube):
https://vimeo.com/dispro
and here is my build up thread:
http://www.oldmarineengine.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?1/271952 |
ned_l
Advanced Member
Username: ned_l
Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2012
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2016 - 01:14 pm: |
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For cutting the keyway,..... A perfectly acceptable job can be done with a 'Dremmel tool' if you take your time and lay it out well. |
