|
| Need information for a seemingly biza... |
| Author |
Message |
    
leaky_scuppers
New member
Username: leaky_scuppers
Post Number: 1
Registered: 02-2013
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 13, 2013 - 10:47 pm: | 
|
Gentlemen, greetings to you all. I've had the opportunity to pervue your site and I love it. Anything that has to do with old machinery is well worth the time to read through it. I have a somewhat strange request to make of the list. Although I'm a yacht designer by trade, I'll be the first to admit that I know little of the early days of power boating. (At least the machinery, anyway.) In any event, I'm building a replica of a veteran automobile, and I'd like it to look as authentic as possible. I have a chassis, and some of the running gear. (I bought it at a swap-meet in the States, although I have no idea what type of car they originally cam e from.) As for body styling, the design will be somewhat non-specific, but think a 1903-1905 Brush, Reo, Maxwell, Crestmobile, or a Darracq. One thing all of these cars had in common was a one or two cylinder engine. If you've ever peeked under the bonnet of any of these cars before you'd notice that the engines look very much like early marine engines. I'd like to use one of these engines as the power plant, coupled to a Ford Model T transmission and rear end. The reason being is nothing spoils the look of what's supposed to be a veteran car like a modern engine. I'd like to use a very common engine for ease of both maintenance and to allow true collectors access to the rarer engines. (Nothing angers me more that seeing a rare antique chopped up into a hot-rod or some sort of post-modern piece of trash.) I realize that this will take some engineering to make it work. But I don't have a lot of money, and actual antique autos over here are priced out of range for anyone but the wealthiest of people, if you can even find anything, hence my reason for doing it this way. What I'd like to do is connect the flywheel to the input of the transmission, so I'll have to create a coupler to connect the two, and an adapter plate to close the end of the transmission. I'll have to rig the propeller shaft to drive a water pump for the radiator and a generator. What I'd like to know is how one of these engines will stand up to the rigors of stop and go usage, such as found in autos. Does anyone have any ideas about this? What is a very common single or double-cylinder engine that's easy to find parts for? I'm aiming for around 10-15hp. I know this may be outside of what you folks may be familiar with, but I trust your technical expertise. Thank you for indulging me in my fancy. |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 514
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 03:05 am: |
|
So you're building a "special"? Great idea! One of my unrealistic teenage ambitions was to build a Bugatti replica - and now they are doing it! I'll let the 'big name collectors' advise you about engines. ;-) Keep us updated on the project, it sounds like a fascinating one. |
paulgray
Senior Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 134
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 11:34 am: |
|
I'd consider the Cushman binder engine in either a 4-5 HP single or 8-10 hp twin. Both 4-cycle, spoked flywheel, rugged, water cooled, plentiful, inexpensive, parts available. Most of the marine stuff is 2-cycle and some 4-cycle marine engine owners would be offended to see their beloved engines tied to a land yacht IMO. But seriously, the Cushmans would be a good choice. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 767
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 01:52 pm: |
|
Look at an early Onan generator opposed engine with the shrouds removed, they look kind of primitive, fins on the flywheel, have a large flange to couple the trans to, and they run and sound great. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 1044
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 08:35 pm: |
|
The early marine engines were two strokes in the small sizes like the Brush used. They were direct reversing engines on the spark but were quickly dropped by the automotive developers as they just were to cranky and didn't fit the problem well.
Sounds like a fun project and I hope you succeed.
Will be looking for progress reports. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 676
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, February 14, 2013 - 11:41 pm: |
|
One of the issues to consider, is that marine engines were designed to (more or less) operate at a relatively small range of engine speed.
An automobile will demand a wider range of engine speed. I'm not sure how well a marine engine (antique variety) would take to that. At higher speeds the engine works better on a leaner mixture, while at lower speed, the mixture needs to be richer to run well.
I'm sure that the engine you end up using will be OK, but you might not be satisfied with the performance.. You'll be wise to choose an engine with a non-integrated water exhaust and 2 cylinders. And it will be big and heavy - cars don't need as much ballast as boats do.
An intriguing project.
A single cylinder engine ( of the antique variety) can be a real "thumper".
miro |
leaky_scuppers
New member
Username: leaky_scuppers
Post Number: 2
Registered: 02-2013
| | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 03:28 am: |
|
Gentlemen, thank you for your prompt replies. I shall take all of your suggestions to heart. As for having to adjust the mixture and timing, this was standard practice on automobiles until the late 20's, early 30's. (If you've ever had the opportunity to drive a Ford Model T or similar-era car, you'll know what I'm talking about They had 'spark' (timing) and mixture (gas or petrol) adjustment levers on the steering column.) I think this would actually be a plus in selecting the engine, in that it would make it more authentic. Originally, I had a Vee-Twin motorcycle engine slated for this design (the advantage of this is that the engine and transmission are a single package), along with a Peerless chain-drive differential. Although this setup would've necessitated a starter-motor reverse, since motorcycles have none, of course. Easy to set up and reliable, but not very authentic sounding. And the effect would be spoiled once the hood was opened. The primary reason for the marine engine is a slow-revving 'thumper' of an engine. I've heard some of the old cast-iron stationary engines idle at around 100-150 rpm. I have built a similar car back in my college days in the early 80's. The car I designed and built (for a school project) was a cross between a 1903 Ford and a 1903 Orient Buckboard. For a power plant on that car I used a nifty little German diesel called the Hatz Supra 1D50. It puts out about 10hp, and has a great deal of torque at the low end. It was even hand-cranked like an old engine should be. The only thing was that it didn't look very old, so I replaced the square air cleaner with a round one made of brass, removed the on-board fuel tank and plumbed in the one I installed behind the seat in the car. This served to make it at least look a little antique. The car had a top speed of about 30 mph (going downhill, with a strong tailwind). In fact, one of the engines I considered my present project was a Sabb single-cylinder diesel, but I didn't know enough about them to consider. I'd need to find some in-depth technical information, such as physical dimensions and engineering drawings of the engine so I could work it into the design. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 769
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 17, 2013 - 11:12 am: |
|
A member of our club told me he wants to sell his IH Auto Buggy (?) engine, circa 1912 air cooled opposed twin, fans on each cylinder. It's dis assembled and is a project in itself, I haven't seen it but if you're interested I can make it a point to go get pictures. |
|
|
|
|
