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Evansville Gas Engine Works - C. P. M...

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kkinney
Member
Username: kkinney

Post Number: 17
Registered: 04-2011
Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 12:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The Evansville Gas Engines Works were built in my hometown of Evansville, Indiana. We have a single cylinder "Boy Scout" engine, 3 HP which is pictured. Today I visited an acquaintance of mine who has a 32 HP, 4 cylinder engine. We're doing some horse trading and as part of the deal I'm to get his engine running. Take a look at the link below and let me know what you think. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Keith
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjynky8z
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jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 655
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 01:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow, what a find. It looks complete except for a couple of plug wires. Is it stuck? Be sure all valves are free before rotating. Oil it up well and see if it has compression, you will have to start it on the timer, if it's an Attwater Kent distributor they equire a special coil, don't know much about them but a search on this site will provide some info. Wish it were closer, I'd love to help with it.
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kkinney
Member
Username: kkinney

Post Number: 18
Registered: 04-2011
Posted on Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes, JB it a sweet engine! It does appear to be very complete. I reached down and gave the flywheel a little pull and it didn't turn. I also tried to compress a couple of valve and they too are stuck. I hope to get it home next weekend and get started on her. The timer/distributor cap does look like the Attwater Kent.
Any tip on getting it unstuck?
I too whited you were closer so we could work on this beast.
How would you start this engine, with a starting crank?
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andrew
Moderator
Username: andrew

Post Number: 1144
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Wow is right.

The link below is the same posted above but you should be able to click on it.

engine photos
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jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 656
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I would make a socket and try to unscrew one of the valve cages, intake would probably move easier. If it comes out without too much trouble you can look into the cylinder and see how much rust you're dealing with. Most likely to rust would be the cylinder with the exhaust open. If you have a milling machine and a lathe you can make a socket, it would be a good idea to clamp it down with a plate bolted in the rocker arm hole, a block outside of the bolt would provide a pivot point to keep pressure on the socket while loosening. If they can all be removed you could free them and re-work the valves.
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miro
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 595
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 11:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The current champion of getting pistons unstuck is a 50 / 50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. But the pistons do need some encouragement to move.
Letting the stuff soak in and do its magic for several weeks will probably help you get the engine free to turn.
It looks like a Schebler carb would fit on the intake manifold. They are available more or less everywhere.
The Atwater Kent coils are frankly a challenge to find. To get the engine running you might need to think about some alternative - but that's way down the road.

Congratulations on finding the engine and keep the questions / discussion going - we're all here to help.

miro
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kkinney
Member
Username: kkinney

Post Number: 19
Registered: 04-2011
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2012 - 11:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks guys, I'm hoping to get it home this weekend where I can really see what's what.
I thought a Schebler carb would be appropriate for this engine. I know they used them on there smaller engines. How large of a NPT pipe did they make?
I'm trying to figure out how you would start this engine. There is no starter. I was thinking a crank would be to small but then I thought about tractors and figured it's not any larger than some of the crank start tractors. How do I determine which direction it runs?
Keith
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jim_parrott
Advanced Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 39
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 02:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Keith,

Schebler's go up to at least 2" NPT, click on the technical link at the top of this page. There must have been some sort of crank handle or bar for that engine. You can determine rotation, by turning over, after the intake valve closes it will make compression on the up stroke (both valves will be closed). If you are turning it backwards after the intake closes, the exaust valve opens on the next stroke. Very nice engine, would love to hear it run.

Jim
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jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 657
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 06:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

On Richards big engine I coupled it to the tractor pto for the initial start, rotation may not be correct for this engine unless you can couple it to the front. A belt around the flywheel to a 1hp electric motor should spin it with the compression release open. I like a serpentine belt with an alternator pulley on the motor, they are small in diameter and give a lot of reduction.
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billschaller
Senior Member
Username: billschaller

Post Number: 481
Registered: 12-2003


Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Schebler Model D did go up to 2", but they are hard to find. 1.5 inch carbs are about 5 times easier to find. 1.25" are on ebay all the time.

http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3433/141710.html
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miro
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 596
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The magneto looks to be geared so that it is running at crankshaft speed, not half the crankshaft speed.
I guess that's Ok because the second spark would occur between the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. The benefit is that the magneto is spinning faster and thus will have a heftier voltage for the spark.

As for starting, leaving one or two of the cylinders decompressed by keeping their exhaust valves open might help.

But I reckon that;s still far in the future, right now.

Miro
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kkinney
Member
Username: kkinney

Post Number: 20
Registered: 04-2011
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info on the Schebler Model D's. If it was meant to have say a 2" will it run on a 1.25"?
I'm not sure about the magneto being geared at crankshaft speed. It looks like the magneto gear is twice the size of the driving gear. But I don't know what is driving the larger gear. I'll have to check it out when I get it home.
I looked for some sort of slot or hole for a bar to fit into to start the engine but didn't see anything. For initial starts I can belt it to another engine or tractor. I like the idea of use a tractor PTO too. I'm just curious as to how it would have been started originally.
Thanks for the help.
Keith
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billschaller
Senior Member
Username: billschaller

Post Number: 482
Registered: 12-2003


Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I don't have any idea what is attached to the front of the flywheel, but there could have been a starting drive sprocket there at some time.

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