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| Removing engine-prop alignment |
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jimdereynier
Advanced Member
Username: jimdereynier
Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2007
| | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 11:29 am: | 
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Matt Morehouse's comment 02/02/10 under MD3B motivated me to start working on putting my spare Sabb 2H into my 1957 Atkin schooner. (The current Sabb 2 H has become addicted to Marvin Mystery oil and warm intake air- even after a valve job 4 years ago)
Engine mount bolts: In one of Matt’s comments on a seized piston he suggested soaking with Aero Kroil- I have been soaking the 6 nuts every week for past 3 months. It looks like 5/6 nuts will come off with out of fight. The one frozen nut is on the clutch housing-plenty of open space. Would you suggest just cutting this nut ? without even trying to heat it with a touch. ( Engine timbers are maybe 2.5” x3” oak)
I have this fantasy that if I somehow design the right jig, I could prevent moving the prop shaft while lifting the engine. I believe a more realistic picture is that since there is less than .015” gap ( now occupied by a gasket) between the two faces of the engine-prop shaft coupling, there is no way I can prevent moving the shaft when raising the engine- Or do you slide the shaft back 1-2” after it is uncoupled ? Your suggestions please. ( there is a floor timber half way between the coupling and the stuffing box- I plan to use to build a support jig.
What other suggestions do you have before I pull the engine- For example J.B.Castagnos and Bruce Findlay in the thread “ Running Problems Blaxland3.5” suggested I understand the torque that is currently required to rotate the prop and disengaged clutch.
I have all winter for your suggestions- I will replace the engine next April- May and after the new engine alignment has been tested, I will pull the boat to work on some growing problems with the port side hood end and the stem.
Thanks Jim, 860-305-1582 |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1450
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 12:10 pm: |
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Jim,
Just unbolt it and slide the shaft back.
You will have to align it again anyway after it is in the water and swelled up for several days. Any wooden boat needs the alignment checked/adjusted after being out of the water. Assuming that your shaft and stuffing box are not self aligning. Meaning that the stuffing box is not mounted on hose and the outer end of the shaft doesn't ride in a cutlass bearing.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 581
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 01, 2011 - 10:07 pm: |
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Yes, Ernie's got it right.
In theory, when I lift the boat for winter storage, I was told to unbolt the coupling from the engine hub while the boat was in the water.
Then the following spring , let the boat take up for about a week before rebolting the coupling and hub.
I decided not to use that procedure because I have a 7 in length of hose between the shaft log and the water tight fitting that takes care of any mis alignment.
I've checked the fit and it does change a little but not enough to require a re-alignment.
Miro |
jimdereynier
Advanced Member
Username: jimdereynier
Post Number: 45
Registered: 08-2007
| | Posted on Monday, November 21, 2011 - 10:20 pm: |
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Thanks guys- I will skip trying to keep the shaft perfectly aligned while I pull the Sabb 2 H. The boat stays in the water all winter so I have plenty of time .
For serious shaft alignment (probably not relevant for wooden boats) check out the high tech article on shaft alignment
by David Zdrojewski, VibrAlign
http://reliabilityweb.com/index.php/articles/Do_You_Do_the_VertiZontal/
never knew all this equipment existed. |
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