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searcher
Member
Username: searcher
Post Number: 23
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Friday, February 18, 2005 - 12:02 am: | 
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Being somewhat of a purist, I have refrained from painting the four marine engines in my posession. However, it would be fun to take a rough engine of no particular character and gussie it up. I ran a search on this site for information on fillers suitable for smoothing out rough cast iron. Bogart recommended polyester resin. Has anybody else had good experience with this or other available fillers? What is the best way to clean the surface of cast iron prior to using filler and then paint? Sand blast, bead blast, phosphoric acid, other?
Thanks. |
jason_denney
New member
Username: jason_denney
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 18, 2005 - 10:39 am: |
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I would recommend either type of blasting media, then clean very well using lots of laquer thinner. The polyester resin is tough stuff, but will leave you with lots of pinholes, so it would probably look worse than if you had left it cast. I have seen people smooth out automotive engine blocks by grinding down the rough spots and following up with something less abrasive and so on, but it's rather obvious and looks wavy. I honestly don't know how hot your engines get, but modern-day body fillers may be just the ticket. They can withstand fairly high temperatures and have excellent adhesion. And it will adhere just as well as the resin this other guy was talking about. Hope this helps. |
andrew
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 1049
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, February 18, 2005 - 01:13 pm: |
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This was sent to me by email although I think it was intended to be posted here:
quote:Hi Jason,
Thanks for responding to my inquiry re fillers.
Cooling of these old two cycle marine engines typically consists of a small pump that pushes water through the jacket around the cylinder. That water and most of the cylinder head would operate near or at the boiling point during the warmer months. Some areas of the cylinder head may get hotter than the boiling point, in particularly around the exhaust port. Would body filler stand say two hundred fifty degrees in the exhaust port area? When you say body filler, I take it that you mean autobody compounds? Are these fillers removable at all or are they pretty much a permanent part of the iron once applied?
Thanks. Hugh
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jason_denney
Member
Username: jason_denney
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 22, 2005 - 04:18 pm: |
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Sorry it's taken me so long to get back with you Hugh.
Around the exhaust port(s), I don't know. I'm sure it can handle about 200 degrees, but I don't know what it would do around something as hot as your exhaust. I suppose you could always spread a light coat on, fire up your engine for awhile and find out that way.
And yes, I'm talking about automotive body filler. It is by no means a permanent thing. If you were to spread a light coat on over your engine, then decide you didn't like it or it wasn't adhering or something, you can always grind it off. Once you start working with it a little bit and sanding on it, you'll see that it really isn't too bad. Body fillers have gotten a bad name over time because of people not following proper techniques and having it fall out.
My advice to you: Get your engine down to bare metal, smear a light coat of filler on it around the exhuast port, run it for awhile and see if it melts or anything. If all goes well, get all that stuff off of there so you can prep your surface. You will want to lightly go over your surfaces with a 36-grit grinding disc (3M makes good ones that you ought to be able to pick up at your local parts store). Body fillers will not adhere to anything less! Not very well anyway. Then smear a light coat on your engine, let it dry and sand it smooth with about 80-grit paper. This will get you in the neighborhood, but you will find you have lots of little pinholes, and primer will not fill these. Follow up with a very light coat of glazing putty, just to fill these holes. Sand that down lightly with about 120-grit paper and follow up with your primer and paint. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will help to the best of my ability. |
searcher
Member
Username: searcher
Post Number: 24
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 22, 2005 - 10:54 pm: |
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Jason,
Thanks for the detailed response. I know that took a bit of time to compose and I appreciate it.
Hugh |
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Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 04:12 pm: |
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