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senojn
Advanced Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 39
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 05:29 am: | 
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This is the second pic I was sending relating to my CLAE 6 engine however (inadvertantly) it shows the small heat exchanger I have trialled to cool the engine .Nothing to do with my exhaust problem .
It consists of a 200 mm heat exchanger (pictued)costing abt $100 , pumping 4 litres per minute of recycled coolant by battery powered pump $80.
Saltwater is pumped in the normal way through the other side of the heat exchanger to cool the coolant and is exhausted the normal way over the side.
These motors usually already have had salt water through them so maybe they will suffer in the long run anyway.Worth a try!
Batteries also are all important.
Have a simple system to reconnect to the original salt water in/out .Bit of salt won't hurt to get home ! |
peter_dixon
Member
Username: peter_dixon
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2004
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 06:46 am: |
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I had a king billy [or king william] pine clinker built boat with a clae f6 in the early 80's. the boat is no longer, but i still have the engine. it had a globular exhaust/water mixer which eventually rusted away due to salt water usage. my motor dinghy i have used not often enough in the last 20 years is more than adequately cooled by 7 feet of 3/4 inch copper pipe beside the keel. water from regal engine goes through the factory water cooled manifold, to header tank, to keel cooler,back to engine. a copper pipe about 3/8 inch, curved behind propellor forces water into exhaust above the junction into the "rubber" exhaust pipe so that emissions are cool and quiet.it is simple and it works for me! but the exhaust cooler works only when going forward.
stainless looks good,but i had a water heater made from it to fit my wood heater. worked about half as well as the copper one it replaced. i don't think stainless conducts heat that well.
it cracked and leaked after a few years.
also think that the exhaust in the pic needs to increase in diameter as it gets further from theengine |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 165
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 06:03 pm: |
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We have done a couple of heat exchanger conversions
to F6's.We machine a hole in the rear engine cover
plate opposite the magneto drive,mill a slot in the end of the drive to take a 3/16th tongue of the drive on a gear pump(used instead of an impeller pump as they dont like being rotated backwards and forward when you prime the motor)Machine the hole
large enough to take a good quality oil seal,
Make a bracket for the pump,bolt it to the engine
utilizing the bolt holes on the rear cover plate
Use the reciprocating pump on the motor as the fresh water pump.fit a 1 liter header tank to
the cylinder head outlet,from here it goes to
the heat exchanger>recip water pump>engine>header tank.The salt side runs, Skin fitting>strainer>
gear pump>heat exchanger>exhaust,which is wet sleeved to keep it cool so you dont burn yourself,but it keeps the salt water out of the
exhaust gas so you dont corrode your exhaust valves,a lagged muffler keeps it very quiet |
laurie_d
Advanced Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 34
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 08:07 pm: |
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Gentlemen, This is very interesting discussion for me as I am planning to fit a twin Simplex (the old piston water pump model) into my 18'er. The motor does not have a dynastart but if it did I would think seriously of running it with fresh water cooling for engine and exhaust heat exchanger and just have a belt driven saltwater pump for the exhaust. At present I'm thinking of setting it up to run on saltwater but with freshwater flushing via mains pressure garden hose when I bring it home to a jetty. I'd appreciate your thoughts. |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 166
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 09:14 pm: |
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Laurie,you could try a "keel cooler",I'm not a big
fan of these in small boats as they can be damaged
by running aground or finding a stray rock if you
beach your boat for a picnic or comfort stop.
Also they are buggers to clean up prior to anti-fouling,and the growth they get creates drag
and affects the heat exchanging process.But they are
cheap and simple.
I did another system utilizing the scoop and
thermosyphon principle,which worked quite well.
It would be possible to use the magneto drive
off the rear with a little bit of engineering,
just be mindful of water leaks from pump scaring
the magneto into submission.
You could also use a poly rib belt,3pk or 4pk
to run off the boss at the rear of the fly wheel.
If you use a short belt you will have to first
remove the flywheel to fit it(disadvantage ?)
Or use a longer belt to slip over the flywheel
Now you have something to cogitate over
Todd |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 167
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 09:35 pm: |
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Just another thought.
You could re engineer the "big end" of the water
pump with an extra lug to fit another plunger assy
on.A bit of a vee twin water pump.
Todd |
laurie_d
Advanced Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 35
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 09:58 pm: |
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Thanks Todd, I had thought of the keel cooler but the risk of damage put me off (especially as the boat gets slipped after each use normally). I'm fundamentally slack and only get about 15 to 20 hours of use from the boat each year so the hassel of providing separate exhaust cooling is a bit of a negative for me. With my luck (and occasional f up) I would not dare mount a water pump anywhere near the maggy - though there is plenty of room there. Thanks for your suggestion re the belt on the flywheel boss. The twin pump drive option sounds good too (I have a spare pump). My main question though is whether freshwater flushing is enough to prevent the old Simplex cracked block syndrome (especially as it tends to be linked with little use of the motors?) And while I'm on it ... my motor feeds the cooling water through channels between the block and manifold. The newer models feed water from the top of the head via a hose to the manifold. I understand the potential for a hot spot in the head of the old motors doesn't usually actually eventuate but have you seen any problems with them? Regards Laurie |
senojn
Advanced Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 40
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 10:09 pm: |
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I too have a Blaxland twin ,new pots,never run with salt water and was thinking of a 'keel cooler' when I install it in a 17'6 launch.
It is a very strong plywood boat and will be trailered so will not be anti-fouled .
As distinct from my CLAE 6 above I'll stay with the heat exchanger and battery powered salt water pump and try to improve things .
Thanks everybody for their very interesting input .
Neil |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 10
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 10:27 pm: |
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Just restored a boat with an origonal blaxland twin and just put a T piece in the water inlet with a three way valve and just connect to this the hose and wash out immediately after use just like the ourboards after use . Maintains the authenticiy of the boat . How long do the pots last on a blaxland ??? |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 11
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 11:39 pm: |
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NEIL do you have any pictures of your installation on the Blaxland
Quinton |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 168
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:32 am: |
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The pots will last forever/b long time if fresh water cool it using coolant,but if you flush it
out after each run you will get many years.
With my 5/7 I flush it out and then fill it with
coolant.
With the 3 way valve system,be sure to start
the motor first as you can fill the crankcase
with water via the muffler and exhaust ports.
Todd |
laurie_d
Advanced Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 36
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:51 am: |
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Todd, I think you are suggesting that it's better to have the fresh water supply coming from a drum or container located below the pump rather than mains pressure or even gravity feed to ensure that the water is only delivered by operaton of the water pump? |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 12
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 01:25 am: |
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Tod my son turned on the tap before the motor was running and water came out of the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe does this mean what you describe has happened . I suppose I must exhaust box dismantle and drain sump and exhaust box am I correct if poosible ring me on 0417011821 or 53380 259 work or home 53341719
Quinton |
senojn
Advanced Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 43
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 01:43 am: |
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Hello Quinton,
My Blaxland and launch project to 'keel cool' has not started yet .Another boat ,an express cruiser ahead of it. Sorry.
Think your suspicions are correct on tap pressure.
Kind regards
Neil |
matt
Senior Member
Username: matt
Post Number: 112
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 02:41 am: |
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I am in the process of installing a plastic tank under the floor of the RubyToo which will hold about 12 litres.
The tank will have anti corrosion fluid{castrol]and fresh water in it and will be switched to after getting back to the ramp or on the trailer.
Valves will switch the water flow from the salt water intake to the tank, and at the point where the cooling water enters the exhaust it will be switched to return to the tank.
Hopefully this will alleviate flushing her out at home, and maybe i can start the engine on the trailer on those cold winter launches
Regards Matt and Ron.
Ps we are going to have a go at starting our P55MRE on the weekend stay tuned, Laurie if you hear swearing from Yarran rd you will know why. |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 169
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 05:56 pm: |
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Yes Laurie,I just fit another hose to the water pump after removing the normal hose and run it into
a 15ltr container that you get spring water delivered in,add a container(200ml )of Castrol inhibitor,run it until the container is just about
empty,leave the hose and container hooked up so
the engine stays full of coolant>bingo no probs |
laurie_d
Advanced Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 37
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 06:43 pm: |
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Thanks Matt & Todd, both set ups sound practical especially the valves (cocks). Matt, I look forward to having the peace and tranquility broken by the Stuart Turner puttering across the valley. Any swearing I may hear in lieu of that will be muffled by my barking as I start on some long overdue home renos (the old blue house at the entrance to Neverfail). |
