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Wet sand blasting.

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Richard Day
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2004 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This may not be new to many but it sure is to me. It has really shown me the way to go when sandblasting is the only practical option. My next door neighbor has a small 3000 PSI gasoline powered washer. He bought an attachment that picks up dry fine sand and he uses it to strip the bottom paint off boats. Does a nice job with no dust and not a lot of mess. I took him a side plate from an NR-3 I am restoring and it stripped the paint, rust and grease off it in seconds and left a really great finish. His biggest problem is getting good, uniform sand. He bought ten bags of childs play sand and it was great. His wife bought another ten bags and they were a different brand and would not feed properly as there were larger grains mixed in with the finer grains which plugged up the nozzle venturi. For my money this is the way to go for cleaning cast iron and steel parts where sandblasting is really the best way to dig out rust and old paint etc. The dust cloud from dry sand blasting is very toxic and makes a big mess. I would be interested in any other experiences with this approach.
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richarddurgee
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2004 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Dick

I still use sand blasting to clean large rough castings, wheel rims etc on the tractors I restore. A grain of sand if looked at closely has very sharp edges and actually cuts the surface of the metal and changes the original texture of the metal. For restoring our old engs and many of there parts I find that using a bead blasting cabinet with glass bead material is much better.
A glass bead up close looks like a ping pong ball although they are solid. In the confines of the sealed cabinet the dry stripping is clean ,fast and most important the castings,flywheels etc come out just about as they were when cast originally. I blast crank shafts and then polish the journals. Pistons bead blasted look like new (cast iron). bead cylinder walls and then hone them, come out real nice. Lately I have been using some of the old original rings on many engs, after beading the rings I have installed them as is and have immediate compression and have taken several out and found them to be seating very quickly.
Wouldn't want to continue to restore engs without a bead blaster. this is the one in my shop its a "Scat Blast" not an industrial grade but it works good for what I need. I put a 3 hp
engine in it to give you a size perspective.
site below has a catalog with a lot of info.

http://www.tptools.com/


bb1


bbfront
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Richard Day
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2004 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks Richard for the info. I listen carefully and want a bead blaster but on heavy rusted casting I am very impressed with the quality of the work with this slurry approach.
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George Coates
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2004 - 06:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes, the wet blast attachment is pretty neat. The trouble you're/he's having with the sand particle size is very common. Play sand is beach sand. Yep, they just go down to the beach and fill the bags. For sandblasting, find crushed quartz or a similar media of uniform particle size. There are many different blasting media available commercially. Quartz is the most common, with crushed coal slag or "Black Beauty" being second.

Hope this helps,

George
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Richard Day
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2004 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the info George. Have you managed to find a home port for the "Shedd"? Must have been a great trip and we were all pulling for you. Hope you can make CMM next spring.
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bill schaller
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2004 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

richarddurgee,

do you use the factory sold glass shields, or something cheaper?
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richarddurgee
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2004 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Bill,
Have gone to local glass shop and have them cut a peice of plate to fit my different machines for over 25 yrs, never had a problem yet ! A Lot less money !
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rholcomb
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2004 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

i have seen a plexiglass window and then tape a polyurethane cover over the plexiglass ,when it gets foggy just remove the old and tape a new cover in its place
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poker casino772
Visitor
Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

poker casino poker 146
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tim fleming
Visitor
Posted on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

to unfog plexiglass try using car wax. it makes it shiny as new. and a lot faster than taping a sheet to it. ive done this with 20 year old plexiglass.
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sului
New member
Username: sului

Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009
Posted on Friday, November 06, 2009 - 02:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sandblasting Equipment http://sandblastingequipments.com/

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